Devils on horseback is a classic appetizer that has been around for centuries. It consists of prunes, dates, or other dried fruit wrapped in bacon and broiled or baked. But where did this peculiar name come from? There are a few theories behind the interesting moniker.
History of the Dish
The origins of devils on horseback are unclear, but recipes for bacon-wrapped prunes can be traced back to Medieval times in Europe. Dried fruits were prized for their sweetness and longevity. Wrapping them in fatty bacon allowed the prunes to soften and caramelize beautifully when cooked.
The first known published recipe for devils on horseback appeared in Hannah Woolley’s cookbook The Queen-Like Closet from 1672. Her recipe called for oysters to be wrapped in bacon. Over time, prunes and dates became a more common filling than oysters.
By the mid-19th century, devils on horseback were firmly established on British menus and cookbooks. The recipe had crossed over from Europe and versions were also popular in America during the Victorian era.
Theories on the Name
There are several hypotheses about why this dish obtained such a colorful moniker:
Appearance
The most obvious theory is that the appearance of the bacon-wrapped prunes is reminiscent of devils (the prunes) sitting on horses (the bacon). When cooked, the bacon saddles the prunes like a horseback rider. This visual metaphor could have inspired someone to coin the fanciful name.
Sinfulness
During Medieval times, prunes and dried fruits were used as remedies for constipation. They were considered useful but also somewhat sinful because they were connected to bodily functions. The idea of the “devil” may have sprung from their association with sin and temptation.
Decadence
The combination of fatty bacon and sweet prunes creates an extremely rich and indulgent taste. In some eras, such a decadent dish may have been seen as wicked, immoral or associated with the devil.
Satire
Another theory is that the name “devils on horseback” was a playful satire of the snobbery of upper class British society. The absurdity of calling a simple appetizer by this wicked-sounding name may have been a subtle mocking of aristocratic pretensions.
| Theory | Explanation |
|---|---|
| Appearance | Prunes look like “devils” sitting on bacon “horses” |
| Sinfulness | Prunes associated with temptation and sin |
| Decadence | Very rich, indulgent taste |
| Satire | Mocking upper class pretensions |
Modern Versions
While the origins are uncertain, devils on horseback have stood the test of time. The recipe remains popular today, with some fun modern twists:
Different Fillings
All types of dried fruit, nuts, cheeses and other fillings are now used in place of prunes:
- Dates
- Apricots
- Figs
- Almonds
- Goat cheese
- Blue cheese
Experimenting with alternatives allows creative riffs on the classic.
Flavored Bacons
Specialty flavors like chipotle bacon, maple bacon, pepper bacon, or brown sugar bacon can complement sweet fruit fillings.
Trendy Server Styles
Instead of a platter, devils on horseback may be passed on skewers or served on individual spoons as a fancy hors d’oeuvre.
How to Make Devils on Horseback
Despite the complex name, devils on horseback are easy to make at home. Here is a basic recipe:
Ingredients
- 12 prunes, pitted
- 12 slices of thick cut bacon
- Toothpicks
- Brown sugar or maple syrup to coat (optional)
Instructions
- Preheat the oven to 400°F.
- Wrap each prune tightly in a slice of bacon and secure with a toothpick.
- Arrange the wrapped prunes seam-side down on a baking sheet lined with parchment.
- Brush with brown sugar or maple syrup if desired.
- Bake for 15-20 minutes until the bacon is crispy.
- Let cool slightly before serving warm.
Pro Tips
- Use thin bacon slices so they get extra crispy.
- If the bacon won’t stay wrapped, dip the prunes first in melted butter or brown sugar.
- For a sticky glaze, coat with maple syrup or honey before baking.
- Try various fillings like cheese, nuts, or different dried fruits.
- Finish with a sprinkle of spices like cayenne pepper or chili powder.
Serving Suggestions
Devils on horseback make a perfect party appetizer or pre-dinner nibble. Here are some recommended ways to serve them:
As an Hors d’Oeuvre
Speared on toothpicks, they work beautifully passed around on trays at cocktail parties. Arrange them neatly on a platter alongside other bite-sized snacks.
On a Cheese Board
The sweet, salty, savory flavors complement cheese perfectly. Add them to a Mediterranean spread with manchego, aged gouda, fresh figs, cured meats, and Marcona almonds.
As a Topping
Chopped up devils on horseback make a crunchy garnish for salads and soups. Sprinkle them over a spinach salad or float them in French onion soup for texture.
For Breakfast
The maple syrup coating goes great with breakfast and brunch. Serve them alongside egg casseroles and pancakes for a touch of decadence.
Conclusion
While the exact origins of the name are up for debate, devils on horseback have become a beloved appetizer due to their delicious combination of sweet and salty flavors. Part of their appeal is the intriguing backstory behind the dish. There is something naughty and indulgent about this “devilish” food. When made well with quality ingredients, it’s easy to see why it has endured as a classic recipe for centuries.