Chicken mull is a thick, creamy soup made with chicken, vegetables, and cream or milk. It’s a comforting and hearty dish that has been around for centuries. But where exactly did this delicious soup originate?
The History of Chicken Mull
The origins of chicken mull can be traced back to Germany, where it was known as “Hühnerbrei” or “Hühnersuppe.” These German words translate to “chicken puree” and “chicken soup” respectively. The dish was made by simmering chicken meat and bones into a broth along with vegetables like carrots, celery, and onions. Thick slices of bread or dumplings were then added to the soup to create a thicker, heartier consistency. Cream or milk was also sometimes stirred in at the end for extra richness and creaminess.
This German chicken soup spread to other parts of Europe over the centuries, taking on slight variations in different regions. In England, a version of chicken mull emerged in the 18th century that included ingredients like rice, parsley, and lemon. It was considered an invalid food given to sick people because it was nourishing and easy to digest. The name “mull” likely came from the act of “mulling” or grinding the chicken into tiny shreds to make the soup smooth.
When European immigrants came to America, they brought chicken mull recipes along with them. It became a popular comfort food in the Colonial era, particularly in the winter when chickens weren’t laying as many eggs. Cookbooks from the 1700s and 1800s include recipes for chicken mull made with ingredients on hand in the New World like cornmeal, squash, and molasses.
Regional American Variations
Chicken mull evolved into different regional versions across America over time.
New England Chicken Mull
In New England, chicken mull is traditionally made with milk or cream, potatoes, carrots, celery, onions, and chicken. Thyme, parsley, salt, and pepper are often added for seasoning. Some recipes call for the chicken to be shredded while others keep it in chunks. New England chicken mull is often topped with oyster crackers or parsley.
Southern Chicken Mull
Southern chicken mull recipes swap out milk for cream and add staple ingredients of the South like okra, corn, lima beans, and butter. Some cooks enrich the soup with egg yolks beaten in at the end or use self-rising flour to thicken it up. The chicken is gently cooked so it remains in big, tender chunks in the creamy base.
Midwestern Chicken Mull
Midwestern chicken mull is largely influenced by immigrant traditions. Recipes often include egg noodles or dumplings, as well as veggies like cabbage, spinach, and tomatoes. Seasonings run the gamut from parsley and dill to more unusual additions like curry powder, allspice, and nutmeg, reflecting the region’s ethnic diversity.
Pennsylvania Dutch Chicken Mull
The Pennsylvania Dutch version of chicken mull is called “botscha.” It contains large pieces of chicken, potatoes, celery, and leeks in a broth thickened with flour and egg yolks. Traditional botscha is finished by adding vinegar right before serving for a tangy flavor.
California Chicken Mull
On the West Coast, chicken mull is made in lighter, more health-conscious versions. The soup may be thickened with pureed vegetables instead of cream, sometimes with unconventional additions like avocado, cauliflower, or sweet potato. California chicken mull often contains rice or whole grains like farro or quinoa. Fresh herbs like cilantro, basil, and chives flavor the soup rather than traditional parsley.
Key Ingredients in Chicken Mull
While recipes vary greatly, chicken mull usually contains a few key ingredients:
- Chicken – provides protein and flavor
- Onion and celery – classic soup vegetables
- Carrots – add color, sweetness
- Potatoes or grains – thicken the broth
- Cream, milk, or pureed veggies – gives body and richness
- Fresh herbs – parsley, dill, thyme provide seasoning
Beyond this basic formula, cooks can add other vegetables, beans, eggs, noodles and more to give chicken mull their own regional or personal spin.
Chicken Mull vs. Chicken and Dumplings
Chicken mull is sometimes confused with chicken and dumplings, since both are old-fashioned chicken soups with thickened broths. But there are a few differences:
| Chicken Mull | Chicken and Dumplings |
|---|---|
| Contains milk, cream, or pureed veggies to thicken broth | Contains doughy dumplings to thicken broth |
| Chicken is shredded or cut in small pieces | Chicken is cut into larger chunks |
| Doesn’t usually contain herbs like thyme or rosemary | Often flavored with herbs |
| Smooth, creamy texture | Chunky texture from dumplings |
While both soups are hearty and comforting, chicken mull has a more velvety consistency thanks to the dairy or purees stirred in. Chicken and dumplings relies on dough-based dumplings to provide a pleasantly chunky texture and absorb flavors.
Cultural Significance of Chicken Mull
Chicken mull holds a nostalgic place in American food culture. It harkens back to old-fashioned home cooking and family mealtimes. When fresh chicken and eggs were more precious commodities, resourceful cooks found ways to transform humble ingredients into belly-warming soups and stews. Chicken mull allowed cooks to stretch the chicken into several meals – the meat went into the soup while the bones simmered into stock.
For many Americans, chicken mull evokes memories of mom or grandma ladling out bowls of this soothing soup. It’s most popular in cool weather, when its rib-sticking quality provides warmth and satisfaction. Simple, inexpensive ingredients allowed chicken mull to feed large families economically. The soup could even be easily stretched with extra water or milk if more portions were needed.
Today, chicken mull remains a favorite choice for community potlucks, church suppers, and family gatherings. It freezes well for meals later on. Making chicken mull is often a full day project of simmering bones for stock, chopping vegetables, shredding chicken, and letting flavors meld. But the result is a nurturing, soul-warming dish that provides the quintessential taste of home.
Where to Enjoy Chicken Mull Today
While chicken mull is mostly a homemade dish, some restaurants have put their own spin on this classic soup.
New England
Durgin Park in Boston serves traditional New England style chicken mull ladled over biscuits.
The South
Mary Mac’s Tea Room in Atlanta offers chicken mull cooked in the classic Southern method with butter and cream.
Midwest
Ann Sather in Chicago features Swedish-influenced chicken mull with chicken meatballs, noodles and dill.
Pennsylvania
The Amish Farm and House in Lancaster, PA serves authentic Pennsylvania Dutch style botscha chicken mull.
California
True Food Kitchen locations in California put a healthy spin on chicken mull with quinoa and kale.
How to Make Chicken Mull at Home
Chicken mull is easy to make yourself at home. Here is a basic recipe to get you started:
Ingredients:
- 1 whole chicken
- 1 onion, chopped
- 2 carrots, peeled and sliced
- 2 stalks celery, sliced
- 8 cups chicken stock
- 2 russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
- 1 cup milk or heavy cream
- 2 tbsp parsley, chopped
- Salt and pepper to taste
Instructions:
- Simmer the whole chicken in a large pot of water until cooked through, about 45 mins. Remove chicken and allow to cool.
- Add the onion, carrots, celery and chicken stock to the pot. Simmer for 30 minutes.
- Meanwhile, shred or chop the chicken into bite-sized pieces.
- Add the potatoes to the pot and cook for 15 more minutes until tender.
- Stir in the milk or cream and shredded chicken. Season with salt, pepper and parsley.
- Simmer for 5 more minutes to heat through. Adjust seasonings to taste.
- Ladle into bowls and serve warm.
For a heartier soup, add noodles, rice or biscuit dumplings. You can use milk for a lighter broth or cream for a richer flavor. Add any extra veggies you enjoy like peas, corn or spinach. Top with crackers, croutons or oyster crackers for some crunch.
Chicken Mull Through the Ages
Chicken mull has evolved from its peasant food roots into a beloved regional classic across America. Next time you spoon up a steaming bowl of this comforting soup, consider the generations that came before who also enjoyed this dish. With its flexible nature and appeal, chicken mull will likely continue satisfying cooks and diners for centuries to come.