The origin of the seven fishes associated with the Feast of the Seven Fishes is unclear. This Italian-American Christmas Eve tradition features seven different seafood dishes, but the specific types of fish can vary by region and family. While the roots of this tradition are uncertain, some key theories have emerged over the years. In this article, we will explore the possible origins of the seven fishes, looking at evidence from Italian traditions, Catholic practices, and immigrant culture in America. Understanding the history of the seven fishes can help appreciate this beloved holiday custom.
Theories on the Origins of the Feast of the Seven Fishes
Here are some of the main theories on how the tradition of eating seven fish dishes on Christmas Eve began:
Catholic Religious Origins
Some connect the tradition to Catholic religious practices. One theory is that it originated centuries ago as a meatless meal for the vigil before Christmas day. Catholic doctrine dictates that meat should not be consumed on the day before certain holy days, including Christmas. Fish was seen as an acceptable food for such vigils and fast days. Over time, multiple fish courses may have become associated with this important Christmas vigil.
Another religious theory links the seven fishes to the Seven Sacraments of the Catholic church. It is possible that Italian Catholic families wanted to symbolize the sacraments through the seven seafood dishes.
Significance of the Number Seven
The number seven holds special meaning in Catholicism. It represents spiritual perfection and wholeness. God rested on the seventh day after creating the world.
Some hypothesize that the seven fish dishes correspond to the seven days of creation, or the seven sorrows and joys of the Virgin Mary. The number seven occurs frequently in the Bible, which could help explain its connection to this tradition.
Sicilian and Southern Italian Roots
Many believe the feast has origins in ancient celebrations of Sicilian and Southern Italian fishing cultures. Coastal communities relied heavily on seafood like squid, octopus, shellfish, sardines, and cod. Multiple fish courses reflect these local food traditions.
The abundance of fresh fish during Christmas may have also led to elaborate fish feasts. Some accounts point to early traditions of seven-course fish meals in Naples and Sicily associated with holidays.
Scarcity to Abundance
Another theory is that the seven fishes originated when poorer Italian families served multiple inexpensive fish dishes as a symbolic feast. Fish was plentiful in the south and easy to catch locally. Families sought to create a feeling of abundance after times of scarcity. The seven courses transformed fish from a common food to a celebration of life.
Immigrant Culture in America
Scholars believe the current Feast of the Seven Fishes consolidated mainly as Italian immigrants brought these traditions to America. Through the 1800s and early 1900s, waves of immigrants held on to favorite Christmas Eve practices from the old country.
As diverse regional food traditions merged, the general tradition of seven fish dishes solidified across Italian-American culture. The menu expanded from traditional seafood to include both old and new types of fish available in America.
Traditional Fish Dishes in the Feast
While the components can vary, these are some traditional fish dishes often found in the Feast of the Seven Fishes:
Baccalà (Dried Salt Cod)
This heavily salted, dried fish needs to be soaked in water to remove the salt before cooking. Baccalà remains popular in Italy and America thanks to its long shelf life.
Fried Calamari or Shrimp
Deep fried seafood like breaded shrimp or squid rings provide a tasty, crisp appetizer. Calamari and shrimp were accessible seafoods in many coastal Italian towns.
Scallops or Clams
Buttery, baked scallops or wine-steamed clams balance the fried starters. Shellfish offered a festive feast food.
Mussels or Octopus
Mussels drenched in tomato sauce or thinly sliced octopus salad continue highlighting coastal fare.
Smelts
These small, wild freshwater fish have soft bones that can be eaten. Smelts were once abundant in certain Italian regions. Pan-frying them made for an approachable dish.
Eel
While not as common today, eel was once an Italian Christmas tradition. It remains a part of the feast in some communities.
Baccalà, Cobia, or Salmon
Salt cod, cobbler, or salmon main courses demonstrate the accessibility of fish. Italian-Americans would include local fish like salmon as the tradition expanded in the US.
Evolution of the Feast in America
When immigrants brought the Feast of the Seven Fishes to America, it gradually changed with new ingredients and influences:
New American Fish
As the tradition spread across the States, the dishes adapted to feature fish more widely available in each region. Cobia, tuna, salmon, rainbow trout, bass, and shellfish became part of many menus.
Canned Fish
Canned tuna, sardines, anchovies, and salmon expanded options for inland communities without access to fresh seafood. Canned baccalà also became a staple that was much easier to find.
American Cooking Styles
Traditions blended with American flavors like fried fish, tuna casseroles, salmon patties, and shellfish stews.
Family Favorites
Families developed favorite recipes that became part of their feast over the years, whether traditional Italian or Americanized dishes. Cooks got creative within the seven fish custom.
Loss and Preservation of Tradition
Some families have lost the meaning of seven fishes but continue serving seven seafood dishes out of nostalgia and custom. Others work actively to preserve the tradition and pass it to new generations.
New Family Traditions
For some modern families, the traditional Feast of the Seven Fishes feels daunting. They opt to choose 1-2 favorite fish dishes and sides to simplify the holiday meal while honoring this Italian-American Christmas Eve tradition.
Regional Italian-American Traditions
The Feast of the Seven Fishes can take unique forms across different Italian-American communities:
New York
In New York, the feast often featured baccalà, fried calamari or shrimp, steamed mussels, smelts, and eel. Desserts included struffoli, fried dough balls, or sfingi, fried dough with ricotta cream.
New Jersey
New Jersey traditions draw from Sicily and Naples. Mussels, clams, calamari, octopus, and eel are common dishes. Frying fish in olive oil is popular.
Boston
The North End neighborhood has specialty Italian markets and restaurants that sell fish for the feast. Baccalà, scungilli (snails), and calamari are frequent choices.
San Francisco
Sicilian immigrants influenced San Francisco’s take on seven fishes. Anchovies, sardines, crab, and Dungeness crab feature prominently on the west coast.
New Orleans
Southern Italian families in Louisiana add local flavors like crawfish and shrimp to the feast. Fried softshell crab and oysters make appearances.
Midwest
Midwestern families use baccalà, tuna, salmon, and whitefish from the Great Lakes. Green bean casseroles and regional desserts make an appearance.
The Feast Today
While specific customs vary, the Feast of the Seven Fishes endures as a beloved Italian-American tradition:
- The feast is still celebrated across Italian-American communities and families after over a century in the US
- Menus range from traditional baccalà and fried calamari to Americanized salmon and tuna casseroles
- Families adapt the feast to highlight favorite regional dishes and locally available seafood
- The celebration retains deep cultural meaning for many as a way to honor Italian heritage
- New generations continue to pass down this Christmas Eve feast, preserving food traditions
- Some enjoy learning about the feast’s possible origins and symbolic meanings
- The abundance of seafood reflects the importance of this meal for Italians and Italian-Americans
While the exact beginning of the Feast of the Seven Fishes is murky, its cultural significance for Italian-Americans is clear. The tradition has evolved over the years but still maintains its sense of family, faith, and heritage.
Conclusion
The origins of eating seven fish dishes for an Italian Christmas Eve feast likely emerged from a combination of Italian food traditions, religious significance of the number seven, and symbolic meaning related to abundance. Over many years, Italian-American families adapted old world customs to life in America, resulting in the Feast of Seven Fishes we know today. Though details vary, this cherished tradition continues to be a meaningful part of Italian-American holiday celebrations across the country. Passed down for generations, the feast links families to their heritage and brings people together through shared food, faith, and culture.