TSO, also known as Taxane-Stabilized Orgasol, is a patented absorbent material made by Elkem, a Norwegian silicones manufacturer. TSO is most commonly used in cosmetic products as a texture enhancer, but also has some skincare benefits. So what exactly is TSO made of?
The Main Ingredients of TSO
TSO consists of two main components:
- Dimethicone crosspolymer: A silicone elastomer that provides a lightweight silky feel.
- Cyclopentasiloxane: A volatile cyclic silicone that acts as a carrier fluid.
The crosspolymer provides the structure and texture, while the cyclopentasiloxane allows the crosspolymer to spread easily before evaporating away. When blended together in the right ratios, these ingredients produce a powdery soft-focus finish on the skin.
How TSO is Produced
TSO powders are produced through an emulsification process. Here are the main steps:
- The dimethicone crosspolymer is synthesized by chemically crosslinking chains of dimethicone polymers. This creates a flexible, three-dimensional network.
- The crosspolymer is then combined with cyclopentasiloxane and mixed thoroughly to disperse it.
- The mixture is emulsified with water and surfactants to form an oil-in-water emulsion.
- The emulsion is spray dried, which removes the water and yields a fine TSO powder.
- The TSO powder particles are then blended with various adjuvants like cornstarch or silica to achieve the desired texture.
The spray drying process results in porous spherical powder particles that provide a lightweight, dry feel on the skin. The particles are formulated to be the ideal size and absorbency for different cosmetic applications.
TSO Powder Variants
TSO powders are available in different variants optimized for various functions:
- TSO Absorbent Powders: Ultra-porous particles with high oil and sebum absorption for mattifying effects.
- TSO Soft Focus Powders: Microsphere particles that scatter light to blur imperfections.
- TSO Texturizing Powders: Larger particle sizes to provide an enhanced silky feel.
- TSO Adherent Powders: Coated particles that adhere well to the skin.
The porosity, particle size, and surface coating are tailored during production to create the desired powder characteristics.
Unique Properties of TSO
Here are some of the unique properties of TSO powders:
- Lightweight and dry soft-focus texture without greasiness.
- Matte finish without looking chalky or powdery.
- Silicone coating provides a smooth, silky feel.
- Adheres well to skin unlike traditional mineral powders.
- Water resistant and reduces transfer or migration in formulas.
- Sheer optics help minimize the appearance of skin imperfections.
These properties make TSO useful for various cosmetic applications like primers, foundations, eyeshadows, blushes, and skincare.
TSO Absorbency
One of the key benefits of TSO is its ability to absorb oil and sebum from the skin’s surface. This helps create a soft matte finish.
The porous structure gives TSO powders an internal surface area of up to 800 m2/g, allowing it to absorb up to 5 times its weight in oils. The lipophilic or oil-loving nature of the silicone coating also attracts oil and sebum into the pores of the powder particles.
TSO can absorb both non-polar oils like mineral oil as well as polar oils like triglycerides. This broad affinity makes it effective at reducing shine from natural skin oils.
The absorbed oils remain trapped within the powder structure without breaking it down. This allows the matte effect to last over time rather than quickly losing effectiveness.
How Does TSO Absorb Oil?
There are a few mechanisms by which TSO is able to absorb oil:
- The numerous pores and spaces within the powder particles act like tiny sponges, soaking up oil.
- The silicone coating attracts and pulls oil molecules into the particles through capillary action.
- The powder structure can swell slightly to accommodate the absorbed oils.
- Absorbed oils remain trapped within the particles through surface tension effects.
These factors together create a micro-environment that is optimized for sebum absorption while feeling weightless on the skin.
TSO Absorbency Capacity
Research shows that TSO can absorb:
- Up to 250% of its weight in triglyceride oils.
- Up to 370% of its weight in mineral oil.
- Over 100% of its weight in sebum.
This high capacity means only a small amount of TSO powder is needed to absorb excess oil and sebum from the skin. Using just 2% TSO in a formula can provide noticeable mattifying and pore-blurring effects.
Safety and Regulations
TSO powders comply with safety regulations for cosmetic ingredients in most markets:
- FDA: Approved for use in cosmetics and skincare products in the USA.
- EU: Complies with European Cosmetics Regulation requirements.
- China: Allowed for use in China under IECIC guidelines.
- Japan: Registered for use in Japan under METI guidelines.
The ingredients used in TSO, dimethicone crosspolymer and cyclopentasiloxane, have been extensively evaluated for safety. Both are non-irritating to skin and non-sensitizing based on human repeat insult patch tests.
Sustainability
TSO production utilizes a solvent-free emulsification process that does not require VOCs. The raw materials and production methods have a favorable environmental profile:
- Renewable electricity used at production facilities.
- Highly efficient chemical reactions and atom economy.
- No waste products – all output is used.
- Low energy needs for manufacturing.
The crosspolymer ingredient is also designed for biodegradability. Over time it breaks down into simple siloxane components in the environment.
Cost
TSO powder is positioned as a specialty silicone ingredient for premium beauty products. It sits at the higher end of the pricing scale compared to traditional powders:
| Ingredient | Estimated Price per kg |
|---|---|
| TSO powder | $25 – $50 |
| Nylon powder | $15 – $35 |
| Silica | $1 – $5 |
| Sericite mica | $2 – $10 |
| Cornstarch | $1 – $3 |
The high cost limits TSO’s use to specialized products where performance justifies the price – primers, foundations, upscale skincare, etc. It is generally not found in mass market powder cosmetics.
Manufacturers
TSO was invented and patented by Elkem, a Norwegian silicone manufacturer. Elkem produces and markets TSO powders under the trade names Orgasol® and Spherilex®.
Some other companies also produce comparable dimethicone crosspolymer powders, such as:
- Dow – Silicate and Silicone Technologies (SATS)
- Wacker – HDK® powders
- Shin-Etsu – KSP® powders
- Momentive – Trefil® powders
However, Elkem’s TSO remains the most well-known and widely used brand of silicone powder in cosmetics.
Applications of TSO
Some common uses for TSO powder in cosmetics include:
- Primers: Creates a blurring, pore-filling effect.
- Foundations: Controls oil and shine.
- Pressed powders: Absorbs oil with a silky skin feel.
- Eyeshadows: Longwearing color with a lightweight finish.
- Blush: Blurs imperfections for a soft, natural flush.
- Sunscreens: Improves application, wear and enhances water resistance.
- Skincare: Oil and sebum control for smoother, shine-free skin.
TSO brings a host of benefits to these products including mattifying effects, soft focus, and uniqe skin feel. It is widely used by major cosmetics brands globally.
Benefits for Skin
Using TSO powder in your cosmetics and skincare can benefit your skin in several ways:
- Absorbs excess oil and sebum to minimize pores and control shine.
- Provides a smooth, dry touch without looking or feeling powdery.
- Blurs imperfections like fine lines and wrinkles to improve skin texture.
- Creates a “soft focus” effect that makes skin look radiant under light.
- Low irritation risk suitable for sensitive and acne-prone skin types.
- Leaves a breathable protective layer that doesn’t clog pores.
By keeping oil and shine under control, TSO helps makeup last longer and can reduce the frequency of touch-ups needed throughout the day.
Conclusion
TSO powder is an innovative silicone-based ingredient that offers a lightweight soft-matte finish with sebum absorption. It is produced through an emulsification process from dimethicone crosspolymer and cyclopentasiloxane. TSO provides exceptional oil control through a combination of silicone chemistry and porous particle structure. It brings advanced performance and sensory benefits to both makeup and skincare formulas. So while the cost is higher, TSO is an investment in achieving a soft focus, photo-ready complexion.