When it comes to hair types, there are varying opinions on which one is the “toughest” to manage and style. However, most hair experts agree that type 4 hair, also known as kinky or tightly coiled hair, presents the biggest styling challenges. In this article, we’ll explore why type 4 hair earns the title of toughest hair type, look at techniques for caring for and styling it, and provide tips for embracing its unique texture.
What Makes Type 4 Hair So Challenging?
Type 4 hair has a very tight, kinky coil pattern that gives it a frizzy or wiry texture. Unlike straight or wavy hair types that fall into a predictable part, type 4 hair grows up and out from the scalp in any and all directions. The tight coil pattern of the strands causes them to curl back on themselves and create dense clumps of hair rather than defined individual strands. Here are a few key factors that make managing type 4 hair difficult:
- Extreme dryness and brittleness – The curved shape of the hair shaft makes it difficult for moisture and oils to travel down the strand. Lack of moisture leads to breakage.
- Shrinkage – When dry, type 4 hair appears much shorter than its actual length due to the coils tightening. When wet, it can expand to 2-3 times the length.
- Difficulty detangling – The kinky coils easily become tangled and knotted, making combing a challenge.
- Lack of shine – The twisted shape of the coils causes light to reflect irregularly rather than creating shine.
- Density – Type 4 hair has the highest density of all hair types, with more strands packed into a given space.
- Fragility – The bends in the hair shaft make it vulnerable to breakage.
With extreme curling, shrinkage, tangles, dryness, and breakage to contend with, it’s easy to see why type 4 hair is in a league of its own when it comes to styling obstacles.
How is Type 4 Hair Classified?
Type 4 hair is often divided into sub-categories based on the size of the curl pattern:
- Type 4A – Tightly coiled S-shaped curls with a defined curl pattern. Less shrinkage than other type 4 hair.
- Type 4B – Z-shaped kinks and coils with a less defined curl pattern. Moderate amount of shrinkage.
- Type 4C – Very tight coils that almost look like zigzags. Does not clump but has lots of strands densely packed together. Shrinkage is very high.
Most people with type 4 hair have a blend of the sub-types rather than solely 4A, 4B, or 4C. The sections below provide tips tailored to caring for and styling each curl variation of this hair type.
Caring for Type 4A Hair
Type 4A hair has springy, defined curls that make this subtype more manageable than 4B or 4C hair. Here are some care methods to help nourish and enhance your curls:
- Cleanse gently using a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner.
- Use a deep conditioner every week.
- Detangle in sections using your fingers or a wide-tooth comb.
- Avoid vigorous brushing, rubbing or rough drying with a towel.
- Pat hair partially dry before applying leave-in conditioner.
- Define curls and reduce frizz using curl cream, gel, or custard.
- Air dry or diffuse on low heat.
- Protect hair at night by loosely tying a satin scarf or bonnet.
Best Styles for Type 4A
Type 4A curls are well-suited for these low-maintenance styles:
- Wash and go
- Twist outs
- Bantu knots
- Braid outs
- Tapered frohawk
- Top knot bun
Managing Type 4B Hair
With its “Z” shaped kinks, type 4B hair is a bit more challenging to detangle and style. Proper moisture and gentle handling are key to keeping 4B hair soft and defined.
- Shampoo and condition with moisturizing products free of sulfates.
- Use a pre-shampoo treatment to prevent knots.
- Detangle gently in small sections starting at the ends.
- Apply a deep conditioner and let it sit for 15-30 minutes.
- Style in twists, braids or Bantu knots when damp.
- Use a dense bristle brush (like a Denman) to help separate coils.
- Sleep with a satin cap or pillowcase.
Ideal Styles for 4B Hair
These styles work with the texture of 4B coils:
- Chunky twists
- Faux locs
- Braid outs
- Bantu knot outs
- Wash and go
- Tapered cut
Taming Type 4C Hair
Extremely tight, shrinkage-prone curls make 4C hair the most difficult type 4 variation to manage. But proper care and styling can help you achieve defined, elongated curls.
- Moisturize daily by misting water and applying a creamy leave-in.
- Use a deep conditioner at least weekly.
- Shampoo only 1-2 times per week.
- Gently detangle in very small sections while wet.
- Avoid heat styling if possible.
- Let hair air dry or blot gently with a t-shirt.
- Sleep with hair protected in a bonnet or scarf.
Flattering 4C Hairstyles
These styles prevent tangles and show off 4C texture:
- Chunky twists
- Bantu knot outs
- Braid outs
- Wash and go
- Tapered cut
- Frohawk
- Cornrows
Best Practices for Type 4 Hair
While the techniques may vary slightly for each type 4 curl pattern, there are overall care strategies that benefit all variations:
- Shampoo gently 1-2 times per week – Over-washing strips moisture, so limit cleansing to when needed.
- Condition frequently – Use hydrating conditioner after every shampoo, and do a weekly deep conditioning treatment.
- Detangle properly – Always start at the ends and work up in small sections. Use fingers or wide-tooth combs.
- Limit heat styling – Allow hair to air dry rather than blow drying to prevent damage and frizz.
- Set hair damp, not wet – Styling when soaking wet causes fragile strands to break.
- Protect hair at night – Use a satin bonnet or pillowcase to prevent tangles, knots and breakage overnight.
With extra TLC and the right techniques, type 4 hair can thrive and look its best.
Best Products for Type 4 Hair
Using products formulated specifically for kinky, coily hair will help you get the best results. Here are top recommendations:
| Product | Key Benefits |
|---|---|
| Hydrating shampoo and conditioner | Gently cleanse without stripping moisture |
| Pre-poo treatment | Prevent knots and tangles before washing |
| Deep conditioner | Intense weekly moisturizing treatment |
| Leave-in conditioner | Provide slip and moisture for detangling |
| Curl cream or pudding | Define curls and reduce frizz |
| Gel or custard | Hold curls in place and prevent shrinkage |
| Oils and butters | Seal in moisture to prevent dryness |
| Satin bonnet or scarf | Protect hair overnight to reduce breakage |
Embracing the Beauty of Type 4 Hair
While type 4 hair requires extra time and care, it allows for incredibly versatile, beautiful styles. A few tips for learning to love your coils:
- Accept your hair’s natural texture – Work with your curl pattern instead of fighting against it.
- Find your staple products and techniques – It may take some trial and error to discover what works for your strands.
- Style in protective styles – Braids, twists and knots prevent tangles and breakage.
- Change parts frequently – Altering your part helps prevent damage in any one area.
- Trim regularly – Schedule trims every 8-12 weeks to remove splits and encourage growth.
- Celebrate versatility – You can wear your hair out curly or straighten via blowout on occasion.
While type 4 hair has unique challenges, its one-of-a-kind beauty makes the effort worthwhile. With proper care, you can achieve healthy, head-turning styles.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my type 4 hair so dry?
Type 4 hair easily becomes parched and dehydrated. The curved shape of the hair shaft makes it difficult for moisture to penetrate the strands. To combat dryness, be sure to condition frequently, use hydrating products, and avoid over-washing, heat styling, and rubbing hair with a towel.
How often should I wash type 4 hair?
Over-cleansing causes more harm than good with type 4 coils. Wash just 1-2 times per week to retain needed moisture. Co-wash in between shampoos as needed to refresh hair.
What is the best way to detangle type 4 hair?
Always detangle gently in small sections, starting at the ends and working up the hair shaft. Use lots of conditioner or leave-in to provide slip. Detangle while hair is damp, not sopping wet. Avoid yanking or ripping through knots.
How can I combat shrinkage with my type 4 curls?
Shrinkage comes with the territory, but you can help elongate coils by styling in braids, twists or knots when hair is damp. Stretch the roots while air drying. Finishing with an anti-humectant gel or setting lotion will further reduce shrinkage.
What causes knots and tangles in type 4 hair?
The tangled texture of kinky coils and vulnerability to dryness and breakage make type 4 hair prone to knots. Always detangle gently, use plenty of moisture and conditioner, avoid rubbing wet hair with towels, and protect hair overnight.
Can I straighten type 4 hair occasionally?
You can straighten via blowout on occasion as a special style, but minimize direct heat usage to prevent damage to fragile strands. Avoid overuse of chemical relaxers as well.
Conclusion
When it comes to hair typing, there’s no question that type 4 reigns supreme in terms of styling challenges. The extremely coiled strands tend to be fragile, prone to dryness, and vulnerable to shrinkage, knots, and tangles. However, proper care and technique makes managing this hair type possible. The key is to provide ample moisture through conditioning, gently detangle small sections at a time, avoid excessive heat styling, and protect hair overnight. With some patience and TLC, you can help your type 4 curls thrive and look beautiful.