Shoofly cake is a molasses crumb cake that is a specialty of the Pennsylvania Dutch. It is a very old cake recipe that dates back to the colonial era. The name “shoofly” comes from the fact that the molasses used in the cake was supposed to be so tempting that flies would “shoo” away other foods to get to it. The cake is dense, sweet, and utterly delicious. But where did this classic treat come from? What is the history behind shoofly cake?
Origins in Germany
Like many Pennsylvania Dutch recipes, shoofly cake has its origins in the culinary traditions of Germany. The Pennsylvania Dutch are descendants of German immigrants who came to settle in Pennsylvania in the 17th and 18th centuries. These immigrants brought traditional German baked goods with them to America.
One possible ancestor of shoofly cake is a German yeasted cake called Schiffleinbacken. This was a simple yeasted cake that was sweetened with molasses or honey. The Pennsylvania Dutch likely adapted this old recipe to create something new – the shoofly cake.
The use of molasses in shoofly cake aligns with the fact that molasses was a common sweetener in early German-American cooking. Molasses was available from trade with the West Indies. Germans were known to sometimes call it “Melasse” which sounds similar to molasses. So it makes sense that German immigrants would continue cooking with molasses in Pennsylvania.
Early American Molasses Cakes
Molasses was a cheap and readily available sweetener in colonial America, especially in the northeast. This led to molasses being used in all kinds of baked goods. There are many early American cake recipes that include molasses as an ingredient.
For example, in the first American cookbook published in 1796, American Cookery by Amelia Simmons, there is a recipe for “molasses gingerbread.” This was likely a precursor to modern-day gingerbread recipes that use molasses.
There are also early recipes for “common molasses cake” that simply mix molasses with spices like ginger and then bake it. So the idea of a molasses cake was not unique. Shoofly cake was just a local variation of this broad category of molasses cakes.
The Pennsylvania Dutch
While molasses cakes existed in various colonies, it was the Pennsylvania Dutch who truly made shoofly cake into a distinctive regional specialty. The Pennsylvania Dutch settled in southeastern Pennsylvania and brought their Germanic culture and cuisine with them.
The Pennsylvania Dutch were well-known for their baking. Their new homeland had plentiful wheat and rye for breadmaking. It also had lots of dairy from their cows to make butter, milk and cheese. Molasses was readily available from trade as well. So Pennsylvania was fertile ground for the Pennsylvania Dutch recipes to take hold and flourish.
It was in this environment that the shoofly cake rose to prominence as a signature Pennsylvania Dutch food. As molasses cakes were adapted over generations, the crumb topping came to distinguish shoofly cake. The cake was sold at markets to German settlers. And it quickly became a favorite indulgence at church picnics and other community gatherings.
Why “Shoofly”?
But why was this particular molasses cake named “shoofly”? There are a few possible explanations for the unusual name:
- One theory is that the cake was placed on tables to lure flies away from other foods. The sweet molasses would attract flies, thus “shooing” them away.
- Another idea is that the cake was so good that even flies would leave other food alone to “shoo fly” over to the molasses cake instead.
- There’s also a story that bakers would use the phrase “shoo, fly, don’t bother me!” while baking to wave away pesky flies tempted by the sweet smells.
Whichever theory is true, the name “shoofly cake” clearly derives from the presence of sugary molasses as an ingredient. The moniker stuck, and it became the common name for this delicious regional treat.
Traditional Recipe & Ingredients
So what goes into a traditional shoofly cake? The cake has just a few main ingredients:
- Flour – Wheat flour acts as the base for the cake. Rye flour is also sometimes used.
- Molasses – Dark molasses provides the signature sweetness and moister texture.
- Shortening – Historically lard was used, but vegetable shortening is common today.
- Brown sugar – Dark brown sugar adds flavor complexity.
- Spices – Traditional spices include cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and allspice.
- Baking soda – Helps the cake rise.
- Egg – Binds the batter together.
- Crumb topping – A mix of flour, butter, and brown sugar.
The basic method is to mix the molasses and shortening together first. Then the eggs and spices are beaten in to create a dark sticky batter. Separately a crumbly flour-butter mix is made for the topping. The batter goes in the pan first, then the topping is sprinkled over it.
This exploded in popularity across Pennsylvania Dutch country. Soon every cook had their own spin on the ratios of molasses, spice amounts, and crumb texture. The cake became a staple at large community bake sales called “fersommlings”. The shoofly cake tradition was cemented.
Regional Variations
While the traditional shoofly cake has a wet bottom batter and a dry crumb topping, over time regional variations developed:
Dry Bottom Shoofly Cake
In some Amish and Mennonite communities, a drier, denser version became popular. For the batter, eggs and liquid are reduced or removed. Spices like nutmeg and clove are added for more flavor. The resulting cake is stiff enough to have a crumb topping under and over the batter.
Chewy Molasses Crumb Cake
In New England, German bakers made a chewy cake with lots of molasses and without a crumb topping. It was cooked slowly in a moderate oven to achieve a fudgy, chewy texture reminiscent of brownies. This exploits the natural binding properties of molasses.
Lighter Crumb Cake
A lighter style of shoofly cake emerged that uses baking powder for more rise. Eggs are whipped into the batter for added volume. The molasses flavor remains but is less intense. The crumb topping uses oats or nuts for extra texture. This style was likely influenced by wealthier patrons wanting a daintier cake.
Sticky Pecan Pie Cake
In some southern regions like Arkansas, shoofly cake batter is enriched with lots of eggs and pecans or walnuts on top. The nuts toast to form a crunchy sticky topping reminiscent of pecan pie. This shows how the basic concept of a molasses crumb cake was reinvented based on local tastes and ingredients.
Enduring Popularity Today
Despite all the variations, traditional shoofly cake remains popular today, especially among the Pennsylvania Dutch. It is a staple at bake sales and church functions. The cake is also served in many restaurants featuring Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine. Tourists flock for a taste of authentic shoofly cake.
Additionally, food lovers outside of Pennsylvania Dutch Country have grown an appreciation for shoofly cake. Its appearance on TV cooking shows and online recipes has introduced it to wider audiences. The cake offers a uniquely old-fashioned, nostalgic eating experience with its moist cake and sweet, crunchy topping.
Shoofly cake has also come to symbolize the storied history of the Pennsylvania Dutch and their impact on American cuisine. It represents the preservation of food traditions spanning centuries and continents. This added cultural significance has ensured shoofly cake remains relevant in modern times.
Conclusion
For over 300 years, shoofly cake has been a treasured favorite among the Pennsylvania Dutch. Its origin can be traced back to molasses cakes from Germany. The classic cake was perfected by German-American bakers in Pennsylvania Dutch country, who gave it the folksy “shoofly” name. Traditional recipes use pantry-friendly ingredients to create a richly spiced molasses cake topped with a sweet crumb topping. Regional variations have emerged, but the original version remains most popular. With its deep roots in American history and culture, shoofly cake is sure to remain a traditional dessert staple for generations to come. So next time you want an old-fashioned cake that’s moist, sweet, and comforting, be sure to try the historic shoofly cake!