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What is lipstick really made of?

Lipstick is a cosmetic product containing pigments, oils, waxes, and emollients that applies color, texture, and protection to the lips. While it is intended to add beauty and glamour to one’s appearance, have you ever wondered what is actually in lipstick?

What are the main ingredients in lipstick?

There are five main types of ingredients that go into making lipstick:

  • Pigments – Provide color and opacity
  • Waxes – Provide structure and stickiness
  • Oils – Add glossy sheen and moisturization
  • Emollients – Make the lipstick smooth and creamy
  • Antioxidants – Extend the shelf life

Let’s take a closer look at each of these key ingredients:

Pigments

Pigments are powdered compounds that provide lipstick with its color. The most commonly used pigments in lipsticks are:

  • Iron oxides – Provide a range of reds, browns, blacks, oranges and yellows
  • D&C Red No. 6 & 7 – Vibrant blue-red shades
  • D&C Red No. 21 – Warm red shades
  • D&C Red No. 27 – Bluish red shades
  • D&C Red No. 33 – Vibrant purplish red shades
  • D&C Red No. 36 – Orange-red shades
  • D&C Orange No. 5- Orange shades
  • Titanium dioxide – Adds white color and opacity
  • Mica – Shimmery pearlescent pigment
  • Carmine – Red pigment derived from cochineal insects

Waxes

Waxes help provide lipstick structure, melt at body temperature, and prevent bleeding. Common waxes used include:

  • Beeswax – Softens application, non-irritating
  • Candelilla wax – Plant-derived, hard wax
  • Carnauba wax – Plant-derived, hard wax
  • Castor wax – Plant-derived wax, gloss enhancer
  • Lanolin – Wool wax, emollient properties
  • Ozokerite – Mineral wax, texture enhancer
  • Paraffin – Petroleum-based, slick feel
  • Cetyl alcohol – Fatty alcohol, thickening agent
  • Stearyl alcohol – Fatty alcohol, thickening agent

Oils

Oils help lipstick glide onto the lips smoothly and add a shiny, glossy look. Common oils in lipstick include:

  • Mineral oil – Emollient, lubricating
  • Castor oil – Glossy, moisturizing
  • Olive oil – Plant-derived, moisturizing
  • Avocado oil – Plant-derived, nourishing
  • Cocoa butter – Emollient, protective
  • Shea butter – Moisturizing, soothing
  • Jojoba oil – Mimics natural oils, conditioning
  • Sunflower seed oil – Non-greasy plant oil
  • Squalene – Moisturizing oil from olives

Emollients

Emollients help lipstick glide on smoothly and feel moisturizing on the lips. Common emollients include:

  • Isopropyl myristate – Slip agent, gloss enhancer
  • Silicones – Dimethicone, cyclomethicone; smoothing, spreadability
  • Lanolin alcohol – Softening, non-greasy
  • Octyl palmitate – Spreadability, non-sticky
  • Cetyl alcohol – Fatty alcohol, moisturizing
  • Glycerin – Humectant, water-binding

Antioxidants

Antioxidants help extend the shelf life of lipstick by slowing the oxidation process. Some antioxidants used are:

  • Vitamin E – Natural antioxidant
  • Vitamin C – Boosts UV protection
  • BHT – Synthetic antioxidant
  • Rosemary extract – Plant-derived antioxidant

Are there any controversial ingredients in lipstick?

While most lipstick ingredients are considered safe in the quantities used, there are a few that have raised some health concerns over the years:

  • Parabens – Preservatives like methylparaben and propylparaben may have weak estrogen-like properties according to some studies.
  • Phthalates – Ingredients like dibutyl phthalate (DBP) can be absorbed through lips and may disrupt hormones.
  • Lead – Trace amounts of lead may contaminate color additives. Lead builds up in body over time.
  • Carmine – Red dye made from crushed cochineal insects can cause allergic reactions.

However, most major lipstick brands have phased out controversial ingredients like phthalates and lead and use parabens and carmine in minute amounts well below safety limits.

Are there any toxic lipstick ingredients I should avoid?

While no lipstick ingredients are acutely toxic in permitted amounts, those with sensitivities or allergies may want to avoid:

  • Fragrance – Common irritant and allergen
  • Lanolin – Allergen for those sensitive to wool
  • Carmine – Allergenic for some
  • Gluten – Allergen present in some wheat-derived ingredients
  • Nickel – Metallic compound that can cause dermatitis

Always check the lipstick label for ingredients if you have known skin sensitivities or allergies.

Do natural or organic lipsticks have fewer concerning ingredients?

Natural and organic lipsticks from reputable brands do tend to have cleaner ingredient profiles. Some things to look for include:

  • No parabens, phthalates, triclosan, mineral oil
  • Plant-derived waxes and oils
  • Non-nano mineral pigments
  • No synthetic fragrances
  • No carmine or gluten ingredients
  • Certified organic ingredients where possible

However, clean non-toxic lipsticks may not have the same intensity of color or longevity compared to conventional lipsticks. They also tend to be more expensive. Read reviews to find ones with good pigmentation and staying power.

What are the ingredients in popular drugstore lipstick brands?

Here is an overview of some commonly found ingredients in popular drugstore lipstick brands like L’Oreal, Revlon, Maybelline, Covergirl and Nyx:

Brand Common Ingredients
L’Oreal Octyldodecanol, silica, paraffin, magnesium stearate, fragrance, phenoxyethanol, mica
Revlon Dimethicone, isopropyl palmitate, paraffin, magnesium stearate, synthetic beeswax, carmine, BHT
Maybelline Diisostearyl malate, microcrystalline wax, dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, red 7, mica
Covergirl Castor seed oil, ozokerite, ethylhexyl palmitate, paraffin, titanium dioxide, red 6 & 7, BHT
Nyx Ricinus communis seed oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, ozokerite, silica, synthetic wax, carmine, red 7

As you can see, waxes like paraffin and ozokerite as well as silicones are common across many major brands. Pigments like carmine, red 6 and 7 provide vibrant color. Antioxidants like BHT also frequently occur.

What are the ingredients in popular prestige/high-end lipstick brands?

Some commonly found ingredients in prestige lipstick brands like MAC, Urban Decay, Too Faced, Anastasia and Dior include:

Brand Common Ingredients
MAC Octyldodecanol, silica, synthetic wax, kaolin, titanium dioxide, carmine, mica, phenoxyethanol
Urban Decay Diisostearyl malate, caprylic triglycerides, synthetic beeswax, VP/hexadecene copolymer, red 7, phenoxyethanol
Too Faced Ricinus communis seed oil, silica, ethylhexyl palmitate, paraffin, carmine, mica, CI 77891
Anastasia Diisostearyl malate, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene, octyldodecanol, carmine, mica, red 7
Dior Octyldodecanol, paraffin, silica, bentonite, manganese violet, mica, titanium dioxide, BHT

Like drugstore brands, silicones, waxes and pigments like red 7 and carmine are common. Many prestige brands will use synthetic beeswax rather than natural beeswax as a binder. Antioxidants also occur in formulas.

Should I be concerned about any of these lipstick ingredients?

Most of the ingredients commonly found in both drugstore and high-end lipsticks are considered safe. However, a few things to take note of:

  • Synthetic pigments and dyes – Can occasionally cause allergy or irritation
  • Fragrance – Added for smell, but may contain sensitizing compounds
  • BHT – Some concerns around carcinogenic byproducts
  • Carmine – Allergen for some

Overall, conventional lipsticks are formulated to be safe at usage levels. But those with sensitivities may wish to choose organic brands with simpler ingredients and fewer synthetic additives.

Are lipsticks safe to eat? What happens if you accidentally swallow lipstick?

No, lipsticks are not intended to be ingested. They are formulated to be applied topically to the lips. Accidentally ingesting a small bit of lipstick is not harmful but swallowing large amounts could potentially cause:

  • Digestive upset or irritation
  • Nausea, vomiting, diarrhea
  • Abdominal pain

Waxes and emollients in lipstick can coat the gastrointestinal tract and cause symptoms. Extremely high doses of pigments could also overload the liver. But the ingredients and doses in lipstick are not toxic enough to be life-threatening if swallowed. Just try to minimize any accidental lipstick ingestion when applying it.

Do lipsticks contain any nutrients or beneficial ingredients?

Most lipsticks are formulated for color cosmetics rather than skin care benefits. However, some nourishing ingredients added to many lipsticks include:

  • Vitamin E – Antioxidant that protects lips from oxidative damage
  • Shea butter – Deeply moisturizing and softening for lips
  • Cocoa butter – Softens lips and forms protective barrier
  • Beeswax – Protective emollient that locks in moisture
  • Avocado oil – Rich in fatty acids and vitamin E for lips
  • Jojoba oil – Mimics skin’s natural oils, adds cushiony feel

So while not nutritionally significant, many lipsticks do contain plant oils, butters and waxes that help hydrate and nourish lips while adding color.

Do lipsticks expire? How long does opened lipstick last?

Yes, lipsticks do expire and go bad eventually. The shelf life depends on the ingredients:

  • Unopened lipstick lasts 2-3 years
  • Opened lipstick lasts around 12-18 months
  • Creams and liquefied lipsticks expire faster than traditional bullet lipsticks
  • Natural lipsticks expire faster than conventional lipsticks with more preservatives

Using expired lipstick will not make you sick but it may apply patchy and smell or taste rancid. Always throw out lipsticks that have changed odor, color or texture.

How can I tell if my lipstick has expired?

Signs that lipstick has gone bad and needs to be discarded include:

  • Change in texture – Dries out, crumbles, applies unevenly
  • Change in smell – Rancid, crayon-like or stale odor
  • Change in color – Fades, dulls, or develops dark streaks
  • Growth of mold – Hairy or fuzzy appearance
  • Irritation – Stings, burns or causes rash on lips

If your lipstick shows any of these signs of deterioration, safest to throw it out and not risk putting spoiled product on your lips.

Conclusion

While lipstick contains waxes, oils and pigments to achieve the perfect pout, these ingredients are formulated to be safe for topical use at approved levels. Conventional lipsticks may use controversial additives like parabens and synthetic dyes but amounts are negligible. Those with sensitivities may prefer organic varieties with simpler ingredients and fewer chemical additives. When in doubt, check the label. Lipsticks contain no nutrients but won’t harm you if accidentally swallowed. Toss out lipsticks once they expire after 12-36 months. Follow basic lipstick safety and your pout will stay pretty and healthy!