The arisaid is a traditional Scottish garment worn by women, originating from the Isle of Skye in the 18th and 19th centuries. It is a large piece of tartan or tweed fabric that is draped around the body and fastened at the shoulders with brooches. The arisaid provided protection from the cold and wet Scottish climate while allowing freedom of movement for women working outdoors. Let’s explore the history, evolution, and cultural significance of the arisaid.
The Origins and History of the Arisaid
The name “arisaid” comes from the Gaelic word àirsaid meaning “wraparound”. It is thought to have evolved from the earasaid, an older style of wrapped garment worn by Highland women. The precise origins of the arisaid are unknown but it emerged in the late 18th to early 19th century as a more practical outdoor garment for women working on crofts and farms on the Isle of Skye and other northern isles of Scotland.
The arisaid was traditionally made from a length of wide tartan or tweed fabric known as breacan. The breacan was rippling woven in shades of brown, navy and green that provided camouflage while women worked outdoors. The dimensions were around 2 yards wide by 9 yards long. The arisaid replaced the cumbersome earasaid which comprised a large plaid belted at the waist. The voluminous wrap of the arisaid allowed greater range of motion and protected the whole body against the elements.
To wear the arisaid, a woman would lay the fabric flat, gather one end to form pleats and pin it over her right shoulder with a brooch. The remainder of the fabric was wrapped around the body and pinned again at the left shoulder. A belt or sash helped secure the arisaid in place. Weights or mother of pearl beads were sometimes attached to the bottom corners to keep the fabric in place in windy weather. The arisaid completely enveloped the body with only the head remaining uncovered.
The arisaid was characteristic dress of women in rural Highland and island communities through the 19th century. It gradually faded from everyday use in the early 20th century as modern women’s fashion prevailed. However it continued to be worn at traditional Highland gatherings and events. The arisaid remains an iconic emblem of Highland women’s dress through history.
Evolution of the Arisaid into Modern Dress
While the traditional arisaid disappeared from everyday wear, it evolved over time into more modern variations that retained elements of the original. Lighter weight tartans were used to create more manageable wraps that could be draped over the shoulders without enveloping the whole body. These shoulder arisaids were pinned at one shoulder and caught at the waist with a belt. They became part of Highland dress for special occasions.
In the Victorian era, the arisaid shape morphed into tartan shawls with embroidered edges. These were fashionable accessories for Highland dress as women’s fashions became more elaborate and restrictive. The full body wrapping concept of the arisaid was also adapted into ankle-length tartan skirts worn by Highland women throughout the 1800s.
In the 20th century, arisaid fabric was fashioned into poncho-style capes with openings for the head and arms. These gave a modern twist to the traditional wrap. Lightweight arisaids and shawls are still worn today over dresses or sweaters for Highland dances and events. The arisaid continues to add a flair of Celtic style and heritage to modern Scottish women’s wardrobes.
Modern Arisaids
Today the arisaid remains an iconic representation of Highland dress. While no longer a practical everyday garment, it continues to be worn in modernized forms to celebrate Scottish and Gaelic culture. Some modern variations include:
- Lightweight shoulder arisaids pinned at one shoulder
- Tartan shawls and wraps with fringed edges
- Poncho-style arisaid capes with openings for the head/arms
- Long tartan skirts inspired by arisaid style
- Tartan sashes and scarves
Modern arisaids may be worn to Highland games, folk music concerts, Scottish country dances, Burns Night suppers and other Scottish cultural events. They remain a symbol of Highland spirit and Gaelic heritage around the world.
Cultural Significance of the Arisaid
For Scottish Highland women, the arisaid was both a practical garment and cultural emblem. It enabled hard work outdoors in the variable Scottish climate while also representing Gaelic identity. The arisaid had important cultural meanings:
- Protection and camouflage – The muted colors and rippling weave helped women blend into the landscape while working.
- Feminine strength – The arisaid symbolized the hardy resilience of Highland women as they worked alongside men outdoors.
- Gaelic identity – The tartan fabric identified the specific clan and region a woman belonged to.
- Decency and modesty – The enveloping wrap allowed freedom of movement while preserving modesty.
- Social class – Poorer rural women wore hand-spun wool or tweed. Wealthier women wore finer woven tartan.
In modern times, the arisaid retains powerful cultural symbolism. It continues to represent the strength and spirit of Highland women and Scotland’s Gaelic heritage. It is worn with pride by Scottish women around the world to honor their ancestors who worked, struggled and survived wearing this iconic garment.
How to Wear a Modern Arisaid
For those wishing to wear a modern arisaid, here is a simple guide:
- Select an arisaid style that suits the occasion such as a shoulder arisaid, cape, shawl or scarf.
- Choose a tartan pattern that holds special meaning for you.
- Use a decorative brooch to pin the arisaid in place at the shoulder.
- Allow excess fabric to hang loosely down the back or front.
- Cinch a belt at the waist for a secure fit.
- Accessorize with Highland dress items like a sporran purse or sgian dubh knife.
- Wear appropriate shoes such as ghillies brogues.
- Walk proudly and celebrate your Scottish heritage!
With some thoughtful styling, the arisaid makes a striking addition to modern Highland dress for women. A few simple draping techniques transform the arisaid into a gorgeous cultural garment.
Interesting Facts About the Arisaid
- An arisaid woven from 2 yards by 9 yards of fabric could weigh up to 6 pounds.
- The arisaid provided protection from winds up to 60 mph when correctly wrapped.
- Starch from boiled potatoes was used to stiffen and maintain the crisp pleats.
- Wealthy women changed into arisaids to walk outdoors to prevent soiling expensive dresses.
- Tartan dyes came from lichen, berries, bark and leaves boiled in urine.
- An arisaid worn with the white lining exposed signaled the woman was a virgin.
- They were sometimes soaked in water and wrapped around the body for warmth while working.
- A large arisaid could also be used as a makeshift blanket for sleeping outdoors.
Conclusion
The arisaid played an important functional and cultural role for generations of Scottish Highland women. While no longer a common working garment, the arisaid’s legacy lives on in the fine craftsmanship and vibrant tartans of modern Highland dress. The spirit of resilience and Gaelic pride embodied in the arisaid continues to inspire women around the world who value their Scottish ancestry and traditions.