Queen Elizabeth I was one of England’s most iconic monarchs, ruling over what is now referred to as the Elizabethan era from 1558 until her death in 1603. Elizabeth I never married and had no children, earning her the nickname “The Virgin Queen.” She was the last of the Tudor dynasty to rule England. While we have many famous portraits of Queen Elizabeth I, what did she really look like?
Elizabeth I’s Appearance as a Young Woman
In her youth, Elizabeth was described as quite tall for a woman of her time, estimated to be nearly 5 feet 10 inches. She had pale, almost translucent white skin, which was fashionable at the time. Her natural hair color was a reddish brown and her eyes were brown. By her early 20s, Elizabeth had a slim, long-necked figure. However, she was prone to illnesses such as smallpox and measles which may have slightly marred her face and skin later in life.
As a teenager, the future queen became self-conscious about her bouts with acne and smallpox scars. She took measures to hide any imperfections using thick white lead-based makeup. Lead makeup gave the skin a smooth, pale look but was quite toxic. Elizabeth also began wearing ribbons, jewelry, and high collars to distract from any flaws. Her style became iconic, though may have also been a defense mechanism from her insecurities.
Portraits of Elizabeth I as Queen
Once Elizabeth I took the throne at age 25, managing her public image became even more important. There are many famous portraits that depict what Elizabeth looked like as queen, though these stylized paintings may not have been totally accurate.
Two of the most well-known paintings of Elizabeth I were the Darnley Portrait, painted around 1575 when Elizabeth was in her early 40s, and the Armada Portrait from around 1588. In both paintings, Elizabeth is depicted as youthful and healthy with a pale, unblemished complexion. This was achieved through heavy makeup to cover any smallpox scars or imperfections. She also wears an elaborate red wig and highly stylized dress in both paintings.
While these portraits present an idealized image, letters from the time suggest the queen’s appearance in her 40s and 50s did change. Contemporary accounts mention she had lost several teeth and her face was marked by smallpox scars under her makeup. The queen also gained weight later in life, struggling with illnesses that made it hard to stay active.
Key Descriptions of Elizabeth I’s Appearance
- Tall, around 5 feet 10 inches
- Long neck
- Pale, translucent skin often enhanced by heavy white makeup
- Reddish brown natural hair color, though she wore elaborate wigs
- Brown eyes
- High forehead from plucking hairline
- Long fingers
- Smallpox scars later covered by makeup
Elizabeth I’s Elaborate Wardrobe and Wigs
Elizabeth I went to great lengths to carefully craft her appearance through her clothing, wigs, and jewelry. As queen, she wore incredibly elaborate dresses with wide hoop skirts, tight corsets, and puffed sleeves in rich fabrics like velvet, silk, and satin.
Elizabeth had a vast wardrobe of over 2,000 dresses. She was one of the first English monarchs to import fashion influences from Italy and France. Her iconic style of dress later inspired fashions throughout Europe.
The queen also wore vertiginous high heels to give her extra height. She had platform shoes made with cork soles up to five inches high. This helped the 5’10” queen tower over her subjects and rivals.
Elizabeth’s most recognizable feature was her striking reddish-blonde wigs, sometimes styled with long curls. She likely wore wigs to cover thinning hair or hair loss. The elaborate wigs set fashions and were imitated by English noblewomen. Alternately, the queen may have worn wigs powdered with starch or zinc to help repel lice, a common problem at the time.
Key Aspects of Elizabeth I’s Wardrobe
- Elaborate dresses with puffed sleeves, tight bodices, hoop skirts
- Rich fabrics like velvet, satin, silk with jewel embellishments
- High platform heels to increase height
- Intricate reddish wigs, sometimes styled in long curls
- Ruffs, fans, and high collars as accessories
- Heavy pearl jewelry
- Iconic reddish-blonde wigs
How Elizabeth I Used Makeup
Queen Elizabeth went to great lengths with her elaborate makeup routine to craft an iconic, youthful image as she aged. Her skin care regimen took hours and used many toxic products containing ingredients like lead, vinegar, and egg whites.
Elizabeth applied a thick coat of lead-based white makeup each day to conceal smallpox scars and achieve her signature pale complexion. However, lead corroded the skin and was linked to hair loss, tooth decay, and premature aging.
Vinegar and egg whites were whipped into masks to tighten the skin. Elizabeth shaved off her eyebrows and hairline to give herself a high forehead, considered beautiful at the time. She painted on veins with blue makeup to make her translucent skin look lively.
The queen’s lipstick and rouge were made with a variety of odd ingredients, from crushed ants to cat urine. These outrageous cosmetics contained toxins that damaged skin. However, Elizabeth went to extreme lengths to craft her self-image and defy aging.
Key Aspects of Elizabeth’s Makeup Routine
- Thick white lead-based foundation
- Vinegar and egg white facial masks
- Shaving hairline for higher forehead
- Blue lines painted on to mimic veins
- Toxic rouge and lipstick from odd ingredients
- Heavy use of makeup to mask smallpox scars
How Elizabeth I Styled Herself as the “Virgin Queen”
Elizabeth consciously crafted herself as the “Virgin Queen”, a daughter married to England itself. Remaining single and chaste helped solidify her power and avoid foreign influence. However, the queen still wanted to project an attractive, youthful image to potential suitors and subjects.
Elizabeth allowed only approved portraits to be released where she looked young and beautiful. In her private chambers, she used strategically placed mirrors to see herself from all angles. Elizabeth also practiced facial expressions like smiling or poised stares that she could use in public.
The queen was one of the first monarchs to realize she was crafting a persona – her clothes, makeup, and behavior were all consciously choreographed. Remaining the “Virgin Queen” allowed Elizabeth to style herself as an icon beloved by subjects for her virtue and dedication to England.
Ways Elizabeth I Cultivated Her Image as the “Virgin Queen”
- Carefully approved portraits showing her as young and beautiful
- Practicing facial expressions and stares in mirrors
- Elaborate wardrobe and wig to accentuate virginity
- Consciously remaining single to avoid foreign influence
- Crafting an iconic persona beloved by subjects
The Impact of Smallpox on Elizabeth’s Looks
One major influence on Queen Elizabeth’s appearance was her battle with smallpox in 1562 at age 29. Smallpox was a deadly, disfiguring disease that killed around 30% of those infected.
Elizabeth was left with pockmark scars and possibly some slight facial paralysis or vision issues from the disease. She lost her eyelashes and eyebrows. To hide the scars, the queen caked on thick, toxic lead-based makeup.
The smallpox likely damaged Elizabeth’s skin so much that she resorted to wigs to hide hair loss. She was also self-conscious about how the disease aged her appearance. Elizabeth took control by crafting an iconic image of a “Virgin Queen” who defied aging through fashion.
How Smallpox Impacted Elizabeth I
- Facial scarring and pockmark scars
- Hair loss, requiring heavy wigs
- Loss of eyelashes and eyebrows
- Possible slight facial paralysis or vision issues
- Insecurity about aging and imperfections
- Inspired her to craft an ageless, iconic self-image
Weight Gain and Changing Looks as Queen
In her early reign, Elizabeth maintained a slim figure that was considered fashionable. However, in her 40s and 50s the queen began to gain weight as she aged and struggled with recurrent illnesses.
Contemporary accounts describe Elizabeth growing heavier, losing several teeth, and developing a double chin. The Venetian ambassador wrote in 1603 that Elizabeth had grown fat and lost her looks. The added weight shortened her life at a time when being overweight was unusual.
As she aged, the elaborate wigs, makeup, and wardrobe helped the queen mask changes to her looks. Vanity and appearing youthful remained hugely important to her self-image throughout life.
How Elizabeth’s Looks Changed with Age
- Gradual weight gain in 40s and 50s
- Contemporary reports of double chin and tooth loss
- Less active, contributing to weight gain
- Increasingly elaborate wigs, makeup, and dress
- Vanity about preserving a youthful self-image
Contemporary Descriptions of Queen Elizabeth I
While Elizabeth controlled her image through portraits, we can get a glimpse of what she really looked like from contemporary written accounts. Ambassadors, visitors, and subjects recorded descriptive impressions of meeting the queen.
The Spanish ambassador in 1559 described her as “tall and well-formed” with “fine eyes.” An account from 1597 mentions excellent white teeth and a “round face and delicate cheeks.” She seemed vain about flaunting her French language skills.
Later accounts are less flattering. In his 1603 description, the Venetian ambassador highlights Elizabeth’s partial baldness under her wig. As she aged, the elaborate costumes could not totally mask changes to her looks.
| Year | Description of Queen Elizabeth I |
|---|---|
| 1559 | “She is tall and well-formed, with a fine face…Her eyes are excellent.” – Spanish Ambassador de Feria |
| 1597 | “Her teeth are very yellow and unequal, compared with what they were formerly, and on the left side less than on the right. She speaks French excellently.” – German visitor Paul Hentzner |
| 1603 | “Her face is oblong, fair but wrinkled; her eyes small, black and pleasant; her nose a little hooked, her lips narrow, and her teeth black.” – Venetian ambassador Giovanni Carlo Scaramelli |
Conclusion
Queen Elizabeth I carefully crafted her self-image throughout her reign using fashion, makeup, and art. While we cannot know exactly what she looked like, written accounts suggest she was tall and imposing with a pale complexion and red wig. As Elizabeth aged, smallpox scarring and weight gain made preserving a youthful look more challenging. However, the queen dictated her image on her own terms by cultivating her persona as the Virgin Queen.
Elizabeth I’s conscious styling and flair for fashion created an iconic look that still symbolizes her reign. By controlling her portraits and public image, she designed herself as a memorable monarch who defined an era.