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What damages your skin barrier?


The skin barrier is the outermost layer of skin that protects us from external factors like irritants, allergens, microbes, and toxins. It helps regulate moisture and minimizes transepidermal water loss. When the barrier is damaged, it can lead to a variety of skin issues like dryness, irritation, sensitivity, and even infections. There are many factors that can compromise the skin barrier, so it’s important to understand what they are and how to avoid them.

Main Causes of Skin Barrier Damage

Over-cleansing

Cleansing is an essential part of any skincare routine, but overdoing it can strip away natural oils and disrupt the skin barrier. Cleansing too frequently, using harsh cleansers with sulfates and fragrances, and scrubbing too hard are common cleansing mistakes. The skin barrier needs a balance between removing dirt/oil and maintaining moisture. Gentle cleansers are ideal for maintaining that balance without compromising the barrier.

Harsh ingredients

Many skincare products contain irritating ingredients like alcohol, fragrances, and essential oils. These can be very harsh on the skin barrier, especially with repeated use. Alcohol dries out the skin, fragrances are common allergens, and essential oils can lead to sensitivity reactions. It’s best to avoid products with these ingredients if you have a damaged barrier or sensitive skin. Look for gentle formulas with skin-replenishing ceramides, fatty acids, hyaluronic acid, antioxidants, etc.

Over-exfoliation

Exfoliation helps slough away dead skin cells and improves skin texture. But overdoing it strips away too many layers of the skin, deteriorating the barrier. Using abrasive scrubs, brushes, devices, or chemical exfoliators too often leads to irritation and sensitivity. Limit exfoliation to 1-2 times per week and avoid scrubbing too hard on delicate areas like the face.

Environmental factors

External factors like pollution, UV exposure, extreme weather, hard water, etc. also tax the skin barrier. Pollutants increase oxidative damage while UV radiation breaks down collagen and elastin. Hard water deposits minerals that deplete natural moisturizing factors. And cold, dry air in the winter draws moisture away from the skin barrier. Protecting skin from these environmental elements is key to barrier health.

Picking at skin

Habitual picking, popping, squeezing, or scratching at the skin damages the barrier. This includes popping pimples, picking at scabs or hangnails, etc. It creates tiny abrasions in the outer layer of skin that allow germs, allergens, and irritants to penetrate deeper. Picking also increases inflammation and can worsen acne. Keeping hands away from the face is an important habit for a healthy barrier.

How to Repair Your Skin Barrier

If your skin barrier feels compromised, focus on the following tips to strengthen and repair it:

Avoid actives and irritants

Discontinue use of potentially irritating skincare actives like retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, AHAs, BHAs, vitamin C, etc. until the skin barrier heals. Also avoid fragrances, drying alcohols, and essential oils. Stick to gentle moisturizers and cleansers while repairing.

Hydrate and nourish

Dryness further deteriorates the damaged barrier. Use moisturizers formulated with barrier-repairing ingredients like ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, shea butter, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, etc. These reinforce the skin’s moisture barrier. Occlusive ingredients like petrolatum and dimethicone also prevent transepidermal water loss.

Use gentle cleansers

Avoid foaming cleansers with sulfates and stick to gentler cream or oil-based cleansers. Look for soothing botanical ingredients like aloe vera. Cleanse once a day at night to remove dirt, oil, and makeup. In the morning, just rinse with lukewarm water.

Exfoliate less

Cut back on mechanical exfoliation to around 1-2 times per week. If using chemical exfoliators like AHAs or BHAs, take a break until the barrier heals. Very gently massage damp skin with a soft washcloth to remove flaky skin if needed. Don’t rub too hard or irritate the skin further.

Protect from the sun

Exposure to UV light causes oxidative damage that hinders skin barrier repair. Wear a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen every day, reapplying often. Seek shade between peak sun hours. Wear protective clothing and hats if spending extended time outdoors.

Increase skin-nourishing nutrients

A healthy diet provides nutrients that improve overall skin health and barrier function. Focus on foods rich in essential fatty acids (avocados, nuts, seeds), antioxidants (colorful fruits and vegetables), and vitamins/minerals (zinc, vitamins A, C, E). Stay hydrated by drinking plenty of water.

Avoid very hot showers

Hot water strips away the skin’s natural oils. Stick to lukewarm water temperatures when bathing or showering. Add a moisturizer within 3 minutes of getting out of the bath/shower to seal in hydration.

Use a humidifier

Run a humidifier at home and at work to add moisture into dry indoor air. This prevents moisture loss from the skin barrier throughout the day. Ideal humidity levels are 30-50%.

Wear gloves for wet work

When doing heavy-duty housework like washing dishes, laundry or cleaning with chemical products, wear waterproof vinyl gloves. This protects the hands from getting overly dried out and irritated. Moisturize hands after removing gloves.

Avoid lip licking and picking

Licking dry lips further dries them out over time, disrupting the moisture barrier. Resist the urge to pick at peeling lips or bite them. Apply a thick lip balm or ointment regularly to moisturize. Drink plenty of water.

Use a humidifier at night

Place a cool mist humidifier near the bed to counteract moisture loss overnight. This is especially helpful in colder months when indoor heat dries out the air. Make sure to keep humidifiers clean to avoid mold growth.

Sleep on a silk or satin pillowcase

Cotton pillowcases can absorb moisture and natural oils from skin and hair while you sleep. Silk or satin pillowcases minimize this friction, moisture loss, and bedhead. Less tugging helps reduce fine lines over time too.

Avoid irritating fabrics

Some synthetic fabrics like polyester can irritate sensitive, damaged skin barriers, especially in hot humid weather. Opt for soft, breathable natural fabrics like cotton or silk whenever possible. Tight elastic waistbands can also rub and bother delicate skin.

Talk to a dermatologist if needed

If your skin barrier feels chronically damaged and conventional tips don’t help, make an appointment with a board-certified dermatologist. They can assess your skin and determine if prescription creams or oral medications may be warranted to get your barrier back on track.

How to Prevent Further Damage

Once your skin barrier feels stronger, maintain its health by:

Cleansing gently 1-2 times per day

Stick to a mild cleanser without sulfates, fragrances, or harsh scrubs. Avoid over-washing.

Using moisturizer regularly

Apply water-based moisturizers morning and night. Look for barrier-supporting ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid, shea butter, etc. Occlusives like petrolatum help seal in moisture overnight.

Exfoliating 1-2 times per week

Gentle chemical exfoliators like PHA or mandelic acid are ideal for sensitive skin. Or use a soft washcloth with light pressure in circular motions. Don’t over-scrub.

Wearing sun protection daily

UV radiation degrades collagen and elastin fibers that maintain skin barrier integrity. Wear SPF 30+ broad spectrum sunscreen on all sun-exposed areas. Reapply every 2 hours outside.

Avoiding excessive hot water

Shower with lukewarm water rather than piping hot. This prevents stripping the skin’s natural moisturizing oils. Limit showers to 5-10 minutes.

Using a humidifier

Maintain 30-50% humidity indoors with a cool mist humidifier. This prevents moisture loss from dry indoor air during heating seasons.

Eating a skin-healthy diet

Get plenty of antioxidant and nutrient-rich fruits, vegetables, essential fatty acids from fish and nuts, probiotics, vitamins, and minerals like zinc. Stay hydrated with water.

Managing skin conditions

Conditions like eczema, psoriasis, and acne can compromise the skin barrier if left untreated. See a dermatologist to manage flare-ups and symptoms.

Avoiding fragrance

Fragrances, whether natural or synthetic, are common irritants. Steer clear of scented skincare products, perfumes, essential oils, etc. Rinse off perfumed laundry detergents thoroughly.

Quitting smoking

Smoking severely depletes nutrients like vitamin C that are vital for collagen production and skin barrier function. Avoid direct and secondhand smoke.

Minimizing skin picking

Resist the urge to pick at pimples, scabs, hangnails, etc. This introduces bacteria into the skin and causes further irritation. Keep nails trimmed to remove temptation.

Using gloves for wet work

Protect hands by wearing vinyl gloves during dishwashing, cleaning, gardening, etc. Rinse off any chemical residue. Moisturize after removing gloves.

Signs of Skin Barrier Damage

Here are some common signs that your skin barrier may be compromised:

Increased dryness and flaking

Excessive dryness, scaling, peeling, and flaky skin indicate your barrier’s moisture retention abilities are disrupted. Healthy skin shouldn’t be overly dry.

Redness and sensitivity

Barrier damage leaves skin more vulnerable to irritation and inflammation. Red, sensitive skin that stings and burns easily points to a weakened barrier.

Acne and breakouts

When the barrier can’t lock out impurities, it often results in clogged pores and acne. Breakouts concentrated in one area may signal localized barrier damage.

Itchiness and rashes

A compromised barrier allows allergens and toxins to penetrate deeper, triggering rashes and itchy skin inflammation. Eczema flare-ups can stem from barrier disruption.

Increased wrinkles and lines

Collagen and elastin fibers become damaged when the skin barrier can't protect against UV light and environmental pollution. This leads to accelerated aging.

Skin infections

Bacteria, viruses, and fungi can more easily invade through a porous barrier, resulting in recurrent infections. Bacterial overgrowth contributes to acne too.

Difficulty retaining moisture

Frequent dryness and need to reapply moisturizer indicates the skin’s moisture barrier is deficient. Dehydrated skin struggles to hold onto water.

Stinging and burning

Products that never used to cause irritation, like moisturizers or makeup, may suddenly sting if the barrier is damaged. This is a sign to simplify routines.

Tips for Different Areas of Skin

Skin barrier health must be tailored to delicate areas like the face, lips, and hands:

Face

– Use a gentle cleanser without sulfates or scrubs
– Avoid alcohol-based toners and astringents
– Apply a daily moisturizer with ceramides and hyaluronic acid
– Exfoliate skin gently up to 2 times per week
– Always wash makeup brushes regularly
– Change pillowcases frequently to avoid bacterial buildup

Lips

– Exfoliate with a soft lip scrub once weekly
– Avoid licking dry lips as it increases moisture loss
– Use thick lip balms and overnight treatments
– Opt for moisturizing lipsticks over matte formulas
– Drink plenty of water to hydrate from the inside out
– Use SPF lip balm before sun exposure

Hands

– Apply hand cream after each hand washing
– Wear gloves during housework and dishwashing
– Soak hands in moisturizing oils weekly
– Get regular manicures to avoid hangnails
– Avoid very hot water when washing hands
– Slather hands nightly in thick occlusive creams

Conclusion

The skin barrier is a critical protective shield that keeps skin healthy and resilient. But it’s vulnerable to damage from factors like over-cleansing, harsh ingredients, environmental elements, and habitual skin picking. Compromised barriers exhibit increased dryness, sensitivity, wrinkles, infections, and moisture loss. Avoid anything that strips the skin and focus on hydration and nourishment to repair and strengthen the barrier. With a diligent skin care routine filled with gentle products and protective practices, you can maintain a strong, healthy skin barrier for life.