Pears are one of the oldest cultivated fruits, with evidence showing their use going back to prehistoric times. Over 3000 known varieties exist today, ranging from petite Asian pears to large European varieties. Pears are valued for their sweet, delicate flavor and soft, juicy texture when ripe. While fresh pears are a popular snack and ingredient in salads, desserts, and entrees, they also lend themselves well to fermentation and distillation into alcoholic beverages. The most common of these is perry, an alcoholic drink made from pear juice, similar to how cider is made from apples. Let’s take a closer look at how perry is made and its history as a traditional beverage.
Making Perry
Perry is made by fermenting the juice of pears, much like the process used to produce apple cider. Pears are first washed, sorted, and pressed to extract the juice. Traditionally this was done with a hand press or stone press, but modern operations often use mechanical presses. The freshly pressed pear juice, or perry, is then fermented with the addition of yeast. This converts the fruit sugars into alcohol. Fermentation takes 4-7 weeks depending on factors like yeast strain and temperature. Once complete, the perry may be bottled right away or matured in tanks or wooden barrels for anywhere from 2 months to over a year. This extra aging helps develop more complex flavors.
Perry Pears
Not all pears are well suited to perry production. Perry tends to be made from specific varieties of bitter, tannic pears that provide more robust flavors and adequate sugar content. Popular perry pears include the Barland, Brandy, Blakeney Red, Thorn, and Moorcroft. These pears tend to be too astringent to eat fresh but lend complex flavors like citrus, spice, vanilla, almond, and honey when fermented into perry. The varieties of pears used impacts the finished product’s characteristics.
Fermentation Process
The initial fermentation stage relies on yeast to convert pear sugars into alcohol. The main yeast strains used are Saccharomyces bayanus or Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Some producers may allow spontaneous fermentation from wild yeasts present on the fruit’s skin. This can contribute unique flavors but is less predictable. Fermentation typically takes place in stainless steel or enamel-lined tanks. Temperature is kept cool, between 45-60°F (7-16°C). This slower, cooler fermentation helps preserve delicate pear aromas.
Maturation
After initial fermentation, perry may be aged anywhere from 2 months to over a year before bottling. Some producers transfer the perry to wooden barrels or tanks to mature. Aging helps smooth out flavors and develop complexity, aroma, and color. Oak from barrels also imparts notes of vanilla and spice. However, aging is not essential and some producers bottle perry right after fermentation.
Alcohol Content
Fully fermented perry typically contains 4.5-9% alcohol by volume. Levels depend on the sugar content of the pear variety, fermentation time, and use of matured v. freshly fermented perry. Higher quality perries with complex flavor profiles tend to have moderate ABV between 5-7.5%. Some producers make perry brandy by distilling fermented perry to concentrate the alcohol to around 40% ABV.
Perry vs. Pear Cider
Perry should not be confused with pear cider. While their names are sometimes used interchangeably, particularly in North America, there is a key difference. Pear cider is made by adding pear juice or flavoring to apple cider. True perry is fermented solely from pears. Outside of Europe, you need to check if a pear cider is made purely from pears or is a pear-flavored apple cider blend.
History of Perry
The origins of perry stretch back to medieval England and France. By the 16th and 17th century perry production was well established in the Three Counties region of England. The counties of Gloucestershire, Herefordshire, and Worcestershire had ideal growing conditions for perry pears. Cider and perry were vital to rural economies and often paid as wages.
Decline and Resurgence
In the 1800s, perry consumption declined due to industrialization drawing people away from the countryside. Compounding this, perry pears were vulnerable to fire blight disease. By the mid-20th century only a handful of producers remained. But more recently, there has been a revival of artisanal perry by producers seeking to preserve the tradition. New high-density orchards have also been planted.
| Time Period | Status of Perry |
|---|---|
| Medieval Ages | Perry production begins in England and France |
| 16th-18th century | Heyday of perry in Three Counties region |
| 19th century | Decline of perry due to industrialization and disease |
| Mid-late 20th century | Only a few perry producers remain |
| 21st century | Revival of artisanal perry production |
Protected Designation of Origin
In the European Union, perry and cider produced in certain regions can receive Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status. This legally protects names tied to the geographical region. Examples include Gloucestershire and Herefordshire perries. PDO perries must meet production criteria like:
- Made in approved geographical areas
- Uses designated pear varieties
- Follows traditional methods
This protects the authenticity and reputation of perries from these regions.
How to Drink Perry
Perry can be enjoyed pure or mixed into cocktails. Chilled, dry perry makes an excellent aperitif. Its elegant pear tones pair nicely with appetizers like prosciutto and cheese. Sweeter perry suits dessert pairings. Still perry can be served like white wine, while sparkling perry offers a festive choice. The apple notes in perry complement fall spices, making it a natural for autumn sipping. Like cider, perry can be mulled with cinnamon, cloves, and orange zest and served warm in colder months. Classic perry cocktails include the Hocus, made with gin and elderflower liqueur, and the Pear Noel, combining perry with cranberry juice and lime.
Where to Get Perry
Authentic perry can be hard to find outside of Europe. In the United Kingdom, independent producers like Oliver’s Cider & Perry, Dunkerton’s Cider, and Artisan Wines sell traditional perry. Trendy gastropubs are also offering more perry. Travelers visiting England’s Three Counties can tour orchards and sample perry at farms like Broome Farm, Gregg’s Pit, and Moorhayes Park. In North America, look for imported English perry from producers like Aspall or An Ard Ri at specialty beer and wine shops. Domestic options are starting to emerge from artisanal cideries like Sea Cider and Sonoma Cider.
Making Perry at Home
Home cider makers equipped with a press can try their hand at perry production. Search for local or mail order sources of bittersweet perry pears like Oldfield, Butt, Barland, Hendre Huffcap, and Brandy. Press the pears to collect 4-6 gallons of juice to ferment. Use a white wine or champagne yeast strain. Ferment cool for 2-4 weeks, then rack into a carboy for aging. Bottle after at least 3 months of maturing. Make sure all equipment is sterilized to prevent spoilage. While not as easy as running to the store, homebrewed perry is rewarding.
Conclusion
With its deep roots in European history, perry offers a tasty, aromatic alternative to standard ciders. Seek out a quality perry and enjoy its delicate pear bouquet and flavors. From a pre-dinner glass to a celebratory toast, perry is a distinctive beverage to savor.