Tortillas are a staple food in Mexican and Central American cuisine, with corn and flour tortillas being the two main types. Whether corn or flour, tortillas are traditionally made with some type of fat, which helps them become pliable and prevents them from drying out. The most common fats used are lard and butter. But which one makes better tortillas?
The Role of Fat in Tortilla Making
Fat serves several important purposes in tortilla making:
- It tenderizes the dough, allowing the tortilla to become soft and pliable.
- It adds richness and moisture.
- It helps facilitate gluten development in flour tortillas.
- It allows the tortilla to brown evenly when cooked.
- It extends the shelf life by preventing staling.
Without adequate fat, tortillas will be dry, brittle, and prone to cracking when rolled or folded. The optimal amount of fat is around 3 tablespoons per cup of masa flour for corn tortillas, and 2-3 tablespoons per cup of all-purpose flour for flour tortillas. While both lard and butter can serve as effective fats, they differ in a few key ways that impact texture, flavor, and nutrition.
Key Differences Between Lard and Butter
| Property | Lard | Butter |
|---|---|---|
| Fat content | 100% fat | 80% fat, 20% water |
| Fatty acid profile | Primarily monounsaturated and saturated fats | Saturated and some monounsaturated fat |
| Smoke point | 370-400°F | 350°F |
| Flavor | Neutral to mildly pork-flavored | Rich, creamy, sweet |
The differences in fat content and smoke point affect how lard and butter perform in tortilla making. The higher fat content and smoke point of lard make it more stable at high cooking temperatures. Butter contains milk solids that can burn and develop off-flavors when exposed to excessive heat. The flavor profiles also differ, with lard imparting a more neutral flavor while butter provides a richer, sweeter taste.
Corn Tortillas
For corn tortillas, lard has traditionally been the fat of choice. There are a few reasons for this:
- Lard has a higher smoke point than butter, which allows the corn masa to fry evenly as the tortilla puffs up on the comal without burning.
- The clean, neutral flavor of lard allows the fresh corn flavor to shine through.
- The saturated fats in lard remain solid at room temperature, creating tender tortillas that don’t become soggy.
- Lard is more affordable and shelf-stable than butter.
In side-by-side comparisons, corn tortillas made with lard tend to be more pliable and easier to roll without cracking. They have a lighter texture and allow the sweet corn flavor to come through. Butter can work for corn tortillas but may impart more sweetness than desired. It also has a greater risk of burning on the hot comal. Lard remains the first choice for authentic corn tortillas.
Flour Tortillas
For flour tortillas, butter is often preferred over lard. Some of the advantages of using butter include:
- Butter imparts a rich taste and aroma.
- The milk solids help improve the texture.
- Butter enhances the lightly sweet, wheaty flavor of the flour.
- The moisture in butter keeps flour tortillas soft and flexible.
- Butter is easier to cut into flour compared to solid lard.
That said, lard also makes excellent flour tortillas with a tender, layered texture. The higher fat content creates a light, flaky tortilla. Like with corn, the neutral flavor profile allows the wheat flavor to shine. Either butter or lard can be used with great results.
Here is a comparison of properties when using butter versus lard in flour tortillas:
| Butter | Lard | |
|---|---|---|
| Flavor | Rich, sweet | Neutral |
| Texture | Soft, flexible | Flaky, layered |
| Color | Golden yellow | Bright white |
| Shelf life | 1-2 days | 3-4 days |
Nutrition
From a nutrition standpoint, lard may have a slight advantage over butter:
- Lard contains 45-50% monounsaturated fat compared to around 21% in butter. Monounsaturated fats are considered heart-healthy.
- Lard provides more energy density per gram compared to butter.
- Animal studies suggest lard may have less of an impact on cholesterol levels compared to butter, but human studies are conflicting.
- Butter provides more vitamin A, while lard contains a small amount of vitamin D.
However, any differences are minor. Both lard and butter are high in saturated fat and should be consumed in moderation as part of an overall healthy diet.
Cost Comparison
Lard is generally the more affordable option between the two:
| Lard | Butter | |
|---|---|---|
| Cost per pound | $2-3 | $4-6 |
| Servings per pound | 137 (1 Tbsp servings) | 32 (1 Tbsp servings) |
| Cost per serving | $0.02 – $0.03 | $0.13 – $0.19 |
Based on average grocery store pricing, lard provides around 4-6x more servings per pound compared to butter. The cost per tablespoon serving comes out to 2-10 cents for lard versus 13-19 cents for butter.
However, artisanal butters can cost significantly more. Large tubs of commodity lard aimed at industrial usage also bring the price lower than typical grocery pricing.
Availability
Accessibility and convenience are also factors to consider:
- Butter is widely available and convenient to use.
- Lard can be harder to find and requires more preparation as it needs to be melted and strained before using.
- Manteca (Mexican lard) can be found in Hispanic markets and is often pre-packaged for ease of use.
- Rendered lard purchased online can also offer convenience.
For some, taking the extra steps to track down quality lard is worth it for authentic tortillas. Others may opt for the simplicity of butter.
Culinary Uses
Beyond tortillas, lard and butter each shine in different culinary applications:
- Lard is prized in pastries for flakiness – think pie crusts and biscuits.
- Butter provides incomparable flavor in dishes like buttery garlic bread, pancakes, and finished sauces.
- Both can be used for general cooking purposes like sautéing, frying, roasting vegetables.
So they can happily coexist in the same kitchen as multipurpose fats.
Conclusion
For authentic corn tortillas, lard is the preferred choice, imparting flakiness without overpowering flavor. For flour tortillas, both lard and butter produce excellent results, with slight differences in texture and taste.
Lard has cost and potential nutrition advantages. Butter provides convenience and a distinctive rich, creamy flavor.
Ultimately, the “better” fat comes down to personal preference and what qualities are most important for your tortilla making – tradition, cost, nutrition, ease of use, flavor, or maybe a mix of factors. Both lard and butter have stood the test of time as treasured fats with the ability to create tortillas worth sharing.