When it comes to sewing, embroidery, and other needlework crafts, the size of the needle you use really does matter. The right needle size impacts the ease and quality of your stitching. Using the wrong needle size can lead to skipped stitches, broken needles, frayed thread, and damage to your fabric. So how do you determine what needle size is best for your project?
What do needle sizes mean?
Needle sizes refer to the diameter of the needle’s shaft. The smaller the number, the finer or thinner the shaft. For example, a size 10 needle will have a skinnier shaft than a size 16 needle. Needle sizes typically range from size 60 (very fine) to size 19 (very thick).
There are a few different needle sizing systems to be aware of:
- American: Sizes range from 8 to 19
- European: Sizes range from 60 to 110
- UK: Sizes range from 14 to 18
While the numbers differ between sizing systems, the concept is the same – higher numbers indicate thicker needle shafts. Most needle packaging will include conversions between the sizing systems if you ever need to substitute a European size for an American size, for example.
How do you choose the right needle size?
Choosing the appropriate needle size depends primarily on two factors:
- Thread thickness – Match the needle size to the thread thickness. A too-small needle eye won’t accommodate the thread, while a too-large eye will allow the thread to slip around rather than passing through the eye.
- Fabric weight – Match the needle size to fabric thickness and density. A too-small needle won’t pierce heavy fabrics well. A too-large needle will create oversized holes in light or delicate fabrics.
As a general guideline:
- For lightweight threads and fabrics, use sizes 9-11 (60-70 in European sizes)
- For medium weight threads and fabrics, use sizes 12-14 (80-90 in European)
- For heavier threads and fabrics, use sizes 16 and above (100-110 in European)
Needle Size Chart
Refer to this needle size chart for specific thread and fabric recommendations:
| Needle Size | Thread Size | Fabric/Use |
|---|---|---|
| 9-11 (60-70) | Lightweight threads like silk or embroidery floss | Sheer or delicate fabrics like chiffon, crepe, charmeuse |
| 12 (80) | All-purpose thread | Light wovens like challis, batiste, fine linen |
| 14 (90) | All-purpose or lightweight heavier threads | Medium weight wovens like broadcloth, drapery fabrics |
| 16 (100) | Quilting and heavier threads | Denser wovens, quilting cottons, canvas |
| 18 (110) | Upholstery and carpet threads | Heavy canvas, upholstery fabrics, denim |
How does needle size impact your sewing?
Using the wrong needle size can create a variety of stitching headaches. Here’s how needle size impacts common sewing challenges:
Skipped Stitches
Needles that are too small for the thread and fabric cause skipped stitches. The eye of the needle isn’t large enough to accommodate the thread, so the thread skips over the fabric instead of forming a stitch.
Needle Breakage
Using a needle that’s too small for the fabric you are sewing can lead to bent, blunted, and broken needles. The fine shaft isn’t sturdy enough to pierce dense fabrics without distorting.
Thread Breakage
When your needle is too large for the thread you are using, the excess space in the eye allows the thread to tangle and snag. This creates friction that can fray and break the thread.
Fabric Damage
Needles that are too large for your fabric type will poke oversized holes, causing runs, snags, and damage. Very fine fabrics should always be sewn with small, sharp needles that pierce between the fibers rather than tearing through them.
Poor Stitch Formation
The right balance of needle size to thread size impacts how the thread loops form on the underside of your fabric. Knotted, uneven stitches usually indicate the needle size is incorrect for the thread thickness.
Hand Strain
Using needles that are too small or large for your fabric forces you to work harder as you sew. The right needle size allows the needle to pass smoothly through your fabric without excessive push or pull.
Do specialty needles matter?
In addition to size, the type of needle also impacts your sewing. Specialty needles are designed for specific fabrics and techniques:
- Denim/Jeans needles – Sharp point to pierce tightly woven fabrics
- Stretch needles – Special scarf to prevent skipped stitches in knits
- Leather needles – Cutting point to pierce leather and suede
- Microtex/Sharp needles – Very fine, sharp point for delicate, tightly woven fabrics
- Ballpoint needles – Rounded point that slips between knit fibers rather than piercing them
- Quilting needles – Tapered point to handle multiple fabric layers and batting
- Embroidery needles – Subtle special eye and scarf to prevent thread shredding
- Twin or triple needles – Allow sewing multiple parallel rows of stitching
Choosing a specialty needle designed for your fabric type will vastly improve the stitch quality, ease of sewing, and longevity of your needles.
Quick Tips for Choosing Needle Sizes
Follow these quick tips when selecting needles:
- Match needle size to thread size – too small and thread won’t fit, too large and thread will slide around loosely
- Choose needles sized for fabric density – lightweight for delicate, heavyweight for canvas and denim
- Rethread machine with each needle change to avoid thread jams
- Replace needles every 4-6 hours of sewing time
- Select specialty needles like stretch, denim, or embroidery as needed for fabric
- Adjust tension when changing needle sizes to balance with thread thickness
- Stick with quality needle brands for reliability and consistency
Conclusion
One of the easiest ways to instantly improve your sewing is by matching your needle size to your thread size and fabric type. Skipped stitches, broken needles, shredded fabric – all these headaches can often be solved by something as simple as swapping out a too-small needle for a size better suited to the project. Take the time to ensure you have a variety of needle sizes on hand so you always have the right size for your current project. Your stitching satisfaction will thank you!