The Short Answer
On the surface, it may seem counterintuitive that lip balm could dry out your lips. After all, isn’t the purpose of lip balm to moisturize and hydrate? The answer is more nuanced than a simple yes or no. While lip balm can certainly soothe dry lips, certain ingredients, formulas, and improper use can actually worsen dryness over time. Overall, with the right product and application technique, lip balm should help combat chapped lips. But misuse can exacerbate the problem.
How Lip Balm Works
To understand how lip balm can potentially dry out lips, it helps to first understand how lip balm works. The main moisturizing ingredients in lip balms are emollients and occlusives. Emollients fill in the gaps between skin cells, helping to smooth and soften the skin. Common emollients in lip balms include oils like coconut, olive, avocado, and almond oils. Meanwhile, occlusives create a protective barrier on the lips, locking in moisture and preventing evaporation. Beeswax and petroleum jelly are examples of occlusive ingredients.
When used properly, these ingredients provide a one-two punch of softening the dry, flaky skin on the lips while sealing in hydration. This provides immediate alleviation, plus lasting healing over time. However, certain formulas and habits can disrupt this process.
Potential Causes of Drying
There are a few key reasons why lip balm may dry out your lips:
1. Overuse of Menthol and Camphor
Some lip balms contain menthol, camphor, or other minty ingredients because they provide a cooling, tingly sensation. However, these compounds can be drying and irritating when overused. Menthol thins the outer layer of skin, allowing moisture to escape. Camphor has antiseptic properties which may be useful for treating cold sores but can dry out lips with regular use.
2. Addictive Chemicals
Certain chemicals like salicylic acid can disrupt the skin barrier and become addictive, leading to an endless cycle of needing more lip balm. Salicylic acid is a mild exfoliant, so it sloughs off outer skin cells. This gives the illusion of smoothing lips while inadvertently thinning the protective barrier.
3. Licking Lips
Some bad habits like licking dry lips can worsen the problem. Saliva provides a very short burst of moisture but then evaporates, drying lips out further. This tricks the brain into thinking lips need more licking, propagating the chapped lips.
4. Flavors, Scents, and Irritants
Added flavors, fragrances, and dyes can irritate sensitive lips and cause allergic reactions in some. Things like cinnamon oil, citrus extracts, and artificial colors can act as irritants. Even natural flavors may bother some people. The safest bet is hypoallergenic, fragrance-free lip balm.
5. Infrequent Reapplication
Under-applying lip balm or waiting until lips are already dry can make it harder for the balm to penetrate and work. Frequent reapplication and using balm preventatively helps lips hold onto moisture better.
6. Forgetting SPF
Sun exposure can quickly dry and parch lips. Forgetting to apply balm with SPF before going outside makes you more prone to sunburn, evaporation, and chapping.
Ingredient Pros & Cons
Reading the ingredient list on your lip balm can provide clues to how moisturizing or potentially drying it may be. Here’s a breakdown of some common lip balm ingredients:
| Ingredient | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Petrolatum, mineral oil | Very effective occlusives, create protective barrier | Can feel greasy, limit oxygen to lips |
| Beeswax | Locks in moisture, long lasting barrier | Can feel waxy |
| Shea butter, cocoa butter | Excellent emollients, soothe irritation | Thick texture, strong fragrance |
| Dimethicone | Seals in hydration, smooths skin | Can feel heavy |
| Lanolin | Mimics skin’s natural oils | May cause reactions |
| Coconut, almond, olive oils | Nourishing emollients | Can turn rancid over time |
| SPF | Protects against sun damage | Can be drying if chemical filters used |
| Menthol, camphor, phenol | Provides cooling sensation | Can be irritating and drying |
| Salicylic acid | Exfoliates dead skin cells | Disrupts protective barrier |
As you can see, even beneficial ingredients have some downsides. The key is moderation. Using small amounts of potentially drying ingredients like menthol or dimethicone won’t likely cause issues. But overusing them or applying them to already damaged lips can exacerbate flaking.
Tips for Moisturizing Lips
While certain lip balms may worsen dryness, you can take steps to ensure your lip balm hydrates and heals:
Choose simple, nourishing formulas
Opt for lip balms with straightforward ingredients like beeswax, shea/cocoa butter, oils, and ceramides. Avoid lip “scrubs” with exfoliants.
Use SPF protection
Look for SPF 15 or higher to shield lips from sun damage. Ensure the formula says “non-drying” or “moisturizing.”
Apply generously and frequently
Use lip balm at the first sign of dryness. Reapply after eating, drinking, or licking lips. Before bed is ideal too.
Exfoliate gently with a wet washcloth
If flaking is severe, gently rub with a damp washcloth to remove dead skin. Don’t pick or peel lips.
Avoid licking constantly
Licking leads to a vicious cycle of drying. Drink more water and apply balm instead of licking.
Use a humidifier
Running a humidifier, especially at night, can prevent moisture loss.
Apply a thick layer before bed
Look for lip masks or slick ointments to deeply moisturize overnight.
See a dermatologist if it persists
Chronic chapping or cracking could indicate an underlying condition needing treatment.
The Best Lip Balms for Dry Lips
Sticking to simple, nourishing formulas is your safest bet for battling dry, chapped lips. Here are some top-rated lip balm options:
1. Aquaphor Healing Ointment
– Active ingredient: Petrolatum (41%)
– Benefits: Rich, occlusive formula provides long-lasting relief. Free of fragrances and flavors.
– Drawbacks: Thick, greasy texture. Can feel heavy.
2. Vanicream Lip Protectant
– Active ingredient: Petrolatum (30%)
– Benefits: Moisturizing without sensitizing ingredients. Fragrance, dye and preservative free.
– Drawbacks: Limited distribution. Must order online.
3. O’Keeffe’s Lip Repair Lip Balm
– Active ingredient: Beeswax, glycerin, allantoin
– Benefits: Creates protective layer on lips. Includes moisturizing glycerin.
– Drawbacks: Taste and scent not appealing to some.
4. Jack Black Intense Therapy Lip Balm
– Active ingredient: Avocado oil, shea butter, beeswax
– Benefits: Uses antioxidant-rich emollients. SPF 25. Mint-free.
– Drawbacks: Expensive. Strong natural scent.
5. Burt’s Bees Original Beeswax Lip Balm
– Active ingredient: Beeswax, coconut oil, peppermint oil
– Benefits: All-natural formula. Small amount of menthol.
– Drawbacks: Peppermint oil can irritate some. Needs frequent reapplication.
6. Dr. Dans CortiBalm Lip Balm
– Active ingredient: Hydrocortisone (0.5%)
– Benefits: Relieves irritation and inflammation. Good for severely chapped lips.
– Drawbacks: Requires frequent application. Not everyday use.
Other Remedies for Dry, Cracked Lips
While lip balm is the first line of defense, other home treatments can provide additional soothing relief:
Petroleum jelly
Slathering on a thick layer of petroleum jelly acts as an occlusive seal. Best applied before bed.
Natural oils
Oils like coconut, olive, and almond penetrate deeply to emolliate. Can layer over lip balm.
Honey
Honey is antibacterial and moisturizing. Let sit on lips 5-10 minutes before wiping off.
Sugar or salt scrubs
Gently massage lips with a homemade scrub to exfoliate. Rinse then apply balm.
Humidifier
Increasing moisture in the air prevents evaporation from lips. Use at home and work.
Avoid aggravators
Temporarily avoid irritants like citrus, spice, alcohol-based products.
When to See a Doctor
Most chapped lips can be treated with diligent lip balm use and moisture-restoring remedies. But if cracked, split lips persist for over 2 weeks or you notice swelling, pain, redness, or skin changes, it’s time to make a doctor’s appointment. Signs your condition requires medical treatment include:
– Cracks that bleed or ooze
– Extreme pain or soreness
– Recurring cold sores
– Reactions to any new products
– Red, shiny, possibly scaly rash around lips
– Swelling or lump on lip
– Crusting or failing to heal
Possible causes that need evaluation:
– Infections – fungal, bacterial
– Allergic reactions
– Eczema, psoriasis
– Nutrient deficiencies – iron, vitamins
– Autoimmune disorders
– Medication side effects
– Chapped lips in children under age 2
A dermatologist can pinpoint any underlying issue and prescribe medicated ointments, oral antibiotics, or other treatments to cure stubborn lip dryness and damage. Don’t delay if basic balms and home remedies fail.
The Bottom Line
Can lip balm itself dry out your lips? Not inherently. When used properly, lip balm provides moisturization and protection. Certain ingredients may contribute to dryness if overused or applied to already irritated lips. But simple, nourishing formulas applied correctly can aid in healing. Make sure your balm forms a barrier without irritants. Apply generously and frequently, especially before bed. See a doctor if problems persist despite diligent care. With the right product and regimen, you can combat troublesome lip chapping.