As more people opt for Brazilian keratin treatments to make their hair smoother and frizz-free, questions arise about the potential damage these popular salon services can cause. Keratin treatments like the Brazilian Blowout utilize harsh chemicals including formaldehyde to temporarily straighten curls and waves. While the end result can be sleek, shiny hair, overuse of these chemicals can lead to serious long-term effects.
What is a Brazilian Blowout?
The Brazilian Blowout, also known as escova progressiva or keratin treatment, is a salon hair smoothing process that first became popular in Brazil in 2005. It gained popularity in North America a few years later as a less harsh alternative to Japanese straightening treatments. The process involves applying a keratin-rich formula to the hair to relax curls and frizz. The hair is then blow dried straight with a round brush and sealed with a flat iron heated to 450°F. The entire process takes 90 minutes to 2 hours and costs $250-$500 in most salons. It cuts styling time considerably by eliminating up to 95% of frizz and curl for 2-3 months. The final look is smooth, glossy hair.
How does it work?
The key active ingredient in Brazilian Blowout and similar keratin treatments is formaldehyde, a preservative that helps harden and straighten hair. When formaldehyde interacts with hair keratin under heat, it forms crosslinks between protein strands to relax the curl pattern. This effect lasts about 10-12 weeks until new hair grows in. While formaldehyde is effective at straightening, it is also classified as a known human carcinogen that has been linked to certain cancers.
Short-term vs long-term effects
Immediately after a Brazilian Blowout treatment, hair may feel slightly hardened or crunchy. This resolves after a few washes as any coating buildup is washed away. Hair will look very smooth, straight, and shiny compared to its usual texture. This effect can last up to 3 months as natural curl gradually returns with new growth. While these temporary effects are the goal of the treatment, repeated exposure to formaldehyde can cause long-term damage over months and years.
Does Brazilian Blowout damage hair?
There are several ways that Brazilian Blowout treatments may damage hair over time, both structurally and visually.
Weakened hair strength
The high heat required to seal in the keratin treatment (up to 450°F) can bake the hair cuticle and weaken hair strands. Loss of cuticle integrity leads to dry, fragile hair that breaks more easily. Repeated formaldehyde exposure causes additional damage to the underlying cortex, further reducing hair strength and elasticity. This damage worsens with each repeated treatment.
Loss of curl pattern
Some curly-haired women report losing their natural curl pattern after a few Brazilian Blowout treatments. The hair grows back looking looser, frizzier, and less defined. In some cases, the original curl does not return even years later after stopping the keratin treatments. This appears to be due to a gradual loss of disulfide bonds in the hair from repeated chemical damage. Disulfide bonds are responsible for forming curls, so losing these bonds results in permanent straightening.
Dry, brittle texture
Formaldehyde is very drying to the hair. Repeated exposure can cause dryness, brittleness, and breakage over time. Women who get Brazilian Blowouts every few months for maintenance will likely notice their hair becoming straw-like. The ends in particular tend to split and snap off. This damage worsens if hair is colored treated as well.
Hair thinning and loss
There have been some reports of increased hair shedding and loss associated with Brazilian Blowout treatments. This may be due to damage to the hair follicles from the chemicals penetrating down the shaft. Some women notice visibly thinning hair months after starting these keratin treatments. Hair loss is reversible once the damaging treatments are stopped.
Ways to prevent damage
While Brazilian Blowouts do carry some risk, there are precautions you can take to minimize damage:
- Wait at least 2 weeks after coloring hair before getting the treatment. Never color immediately before or after.
- Avoid overlapping with other chemical processes like perms or relaxers.
- Use the lowest possible flat iron temperature to seal in the keratin.
- Get treatments no more than once every 4-5 months for minimal overlap.
- Use hair masks or oils to boost moisture between treatments.
- Take a break from the Blowouts if hair shows signs of damage.
Safer alternatives
If the risks of the Brazilian Blowout seem too high for your hair’s health, consider these safer heat-free smoothing options instead:
Keratin Smoothing Serum
Keratin serums provide frizz-fighting benefits without harsh chemical processing. Many are formaldehyde-free. Apply a small amount to damp hair before blow drying and styling as usual.
Botox Hair Treatment
Similar to a keratin serum but with added botanical extracts. Coats the hair to seal in moisture and smooth the cuticle. No blow drying required.
Silk Press
This heat-based salon service uses a flat iron without any prior chemical application. Silkier results than blow drying but with less damage than a keratin treatment. Lasts up to 1-2 weeks.
At-home smoothing products
Look for styling creams and anti-frizz serums containing oils, silicones, and natural extracts instead of formaldehyde. These help smooth the cuticle to reduce frizz and flyaways without damage. Great for enhancing hairstyles between salon visits.
Conclusion
While Brazilian Blowout treatments do provide temporary smoothing and frizz elimination for many hair types, the potential for long-term damage is real. Weakening of the hair shaft, loss of curl pattern, dryness, and shedding are some of the risks with repeated use. However, minimizing exposure by stretching out treatments, using lower heat tools, and taking conditioning measures can reduce the chances of permanent damage. For a safer approach, women can opt for formaldehyde-free smoothing serums or gentler heat-based styling instead.